General Cycling Product Reviews

A Necessary Preamble and Manifesto

In this "Me first!" day and age, I have to put this spiel here.

Back when I was a full time student, I started this page as a simple gesture of assistance to my fellow cyclists. There's alot of cycling stuff out there, and it can be hard to tell which products work well, stand the test of time, and are worth the limited amount of money I had at my disposal.

As your typical "poor student" making his way through school through coop job placements with a major assist from government student loans, I could ill afford to waste a dollar. Budget parts and accessories were the order of the day, because (shocker) having limited resources requires limited spending.

I don't do the gotta-have-it-now consumption debt thing that mainstream Western society has been herded into thinking is the road towards happiness. Accumulating useless junk wasn't (and will never be) an attractive proposition either. Many cycling product reviews posted online from real, ordinary cyclists (who otherwise wouldn't have a voice if the internet didn't exist) have been helpful to me. I also strongly believe in the power of the bicycle. So, I figured that within my own capacity and experiences, I should return the favour.

Times indeed change. I've graduated from school a long time ago. My formerly worrisome student loans are a distant memory, and I have been blessed in that $ is no longer a day-to-day worry. However, I won't forget how it all started. The original intentions behind this page haven't changed, and this page will remain a staple on this site.

I'm blessed with some freedom to spend, if appropriate, a little more $ on cycling stuff these days. I think long term in item purchases, and I'm willing to spend more upfront on a higher quality item, but only for tangible benefits (e.g. a better experience, longer service life, long term consuption minimization, fairly paid workers).

I still keep a strong emphasis on value for the money. I like to aim for high value but not high end diminishing returns excess. Needless consumption is well, needless, and I strive to be a good steward of the resources entrusted to me. So whether you are a cyclist working with limited cash, or one who finds unnecessary waste unnecessary, or someone looking for good performance without the insane price tag, hopefully this page will be useful to you.

Keep in mind that nothing can be all things to all people. Engineering design is an exercise in compromise. More of one thing almost always means having to do with less of another, but there's usually a "sweet spot" somewhere.

Reviews ignoring these fundamentals are inherently discreditable, and I don't have much time for them. I won't point fingers, but anyone who's had to endure today's "belch first, think later" social media culture knows what I mean. In the reviews that follow, please make your own decision whether or not the product would be suitable for your purposes.

I used to like using a product for a significant time before offering up a review. This resulted in more accurate reviews, but the flip side is that the product becomes discontinued/hard to find soon after the posting. I've now leaned towards posting reviews earlier, and updating them as experience allows.

I don't abuse stuff, and I actually have to pay for it myself. No cheesy free sponsored stuff masquerading as impartial writeups here. No affiliate links. No hidden agendas. No dishonesty. No advertising. I don't race or pursue speed at all costs. I have nothing to prove to anyone. I'm too old for ego nonsense. I try to distance myself from unhealthy self-centered first world problem style whining. I can appreciate high performance, but performance at exorbitant cost is not that impressive. I view the bicycle as a primarily as (a) sustainable mode of transportation and (b) a tool in maintaining active & healthy lifestyles and societies. Practical, versatile, and well-made products at reasonable prices get high marks in my books.

End of spiel. This is one of my favourite pages on the site.

Tire Review Preamble

Tires are a strange cycling item. If you ride regularly, you'll be in the tire market sooner or later. There's a bewildering array of tires on the market (many more brands than actual manufacturers), and it can be difficult to pick one that'll work well for you.

It's also true that tires have a large role in determining the ride quality and feel of a bike. However, they are very difficult to characterize in real quantitative terms. Too often, tires are described in nebulous prose that doesn't mean much ("lively", "supple", "resilient"...). I'll try not to do the same, although some descriptions will unavoidably be subjective (in which case I'll simply be general, and avoid presenting subjective feelings as something authoritative).

Note that I am a rather wispy rider who doesn't have very much power, nor do I weigh all that much. Thus I seem to get way longer tread life out of my tires than most other cyclists. Keep this in mind when reading my mileage numbers.

Continental Ultra Sport 700x23 Road Tires (Wire Bead, Original Revision)

You may think of the Continental Ultra Sports as a modestly improved version of the Specialized Transitions. The construction is very similar to the Transitions, and so long life is expected out of the Ultra Sports. The Ultra Sports handle better, although they're not race tires by any stretch. I bought my pair back at a super low price of CAD$12.50/ea, but the current revisions are no longer noteworthy at $27/ea.

Thankfully MEC only carries the all black version (folding Kevlar bead and Kevlar belted variants also exist). A thin layer of black rubber covers and protects the sidewalls, and so I expect little to no sidewall trouble for the life of these tires. Like the Specialized Transitions, this rubber layer also lines the inside of the tire. The Ultra Sports measure exactly 23.0mm on Rigida SHP-60 rims, and 23.25mm on Formula Xero XSR-3 (narrow 14mm internal width) rims.

Also like the Transitions and other basic class tires, the Ultra Sports have a thicker layer of tread. Where the Ultra Sports differ from the Transitions, is that the tread rubber is softer and grippier. As a result, the Ultra Sports are more sure footed tire than the Transitions; they corner faster and with more confidence. They simply stick better. The softer rubber of course won't wear quite as long - however, since the Transitions have an astoundingly high tread wear bar, I don't see this as a problem in the least. The tradeoff is worth it anyways. Subjective ride quality is about the same as the Transitions - which is to say moderately harsh, and on the slower side. Basic low cost class tires won't match the speed or ride quality of race tires.

The casing is a rough 28TPI (Continental misrepresents it at 84TPI, seeing fit to multiply 28TPI by the 3 casing plies under the tread to get 84). For a basic wire-beaded tire, weight is as expected at 300g/tire. The tread pattern is an effective slick, broken up with the usual decorative and useless grooves running along the sides. Continental is a German tire manufacturer, but the low cost Ultra Sport is outsourced. The original Ultra Sports were made in Thailand (probably either Vee Rubber or Vittoria's Lion Tyres), and the current revision is made in Taiwan (primary suspects are Cheng Shin Tire or Kenda).

If you're not in a position to spend more $, or if you prefer a tire with protected sidewalls, the Continental Ultra Sports are decent base quality everyday tires to get you rolling. Otherwise, if your budget allows and as you ride more, I think you'd prefer and enjoy a more upscale tire.

Minoura HyperMag Alu-LW Trainer

By golly, the jayman has bought a trainer. It's just a basic dumb trainer (or, the "classic" type, if you prefer to think of it that way); back in Oct 2005, smart trainers weren't invented yet!

I should mention right off the bat that I have to thank my good friends Thomas and Claire. After hearing me lament about getting out of shape and not being able to ride over the classic Canadian winter, they were the ones who asked why I didn't try a trainer. A most excellent question, since I'm the supposed cycling nut.

I hold no illusions about trainers not being a purely a luxury cycling item. I had dismissed purchasing one in the past, precisely because of this (the expense had always been beyond what I could afford as your typical working-class student). Only because of (a) an easing of financial constraints and (b) a renewed dedication to staying fit during the winter (I'm not getting any younger), have allowed me to take the plunge.

The Minoura HyperMag Alu-LW is the first trainer I've owned, so my approach here is of the typical newbie. Minoura makes 2 major types of trainers, traditional tire drive and rim drive. The rim drive design is nice to use if you want to run a mountain bike without swapping to a slick tire (tire drive models don't work well with knobby tires). Since this does not apply to me, I opted for the standard tire drive model, and saved a few bucks in the process. The HyperMag Alu-LW uses a magnetic resistance unit, a proven if lower-tech technology.

The HyperMag Alu-LW was Minoura's high end trainer unit in the 2005 lineup. I originally targeted the mid-line 850 or entry 500 model, but I spotted the Alu-LW on closeout at CAD$200, which was less than the going rates for the lower 2 models. So I chose the Alu-LW solely on the basis of the discounted price.

The HyperMag Alu-LW has a frame made of aluminum, which is rather lightweight. If you plan to be transporting the trainer much, you'll love it. Otherwise (and in the case of floor pumps), I don't really see the benefit of this pricier addition. The frame is nicely finished in a neutral silver satin colour, which looks great anywhere. Since many users will be setting up their trainers in their homes for many months of winter, it's nice to have a unit (essentially perched as a piece of furniture) that's not unnecessarily ugly.

The resistance provided by the HyperMag Alu-LW's 1kg flywheel is plenty adequate for this recreational rider.. The ride feel is like that of a continuous uphill or headwind. There is a cable actuacted remote resistance adjuster unit; although not strictly necessary for multi-speed bikes (simply changing gears also adjusts resistance on-the-fly), it's useful since it adjusts resistance in much finer steps. It's a nice feature to have.

Another upgrade feature is the quick release foot plate. The contact pressure of the resistance unit only needs to be properly adjusted once, and the QR mechanism thereafter engages and releases the resistance unit perfectly every time (the resistance unit needs to be disengaged when you're not actually using the trainer). Easy breezy. Lesser models don't have this feature; you instead need to screw and unscrew an adjustment knob, every time you use the trainer.

A reasonable workout can be had in just 30 mins, and 45-60 mins can be quite intense. In any case, you'll want a towel handy to mop up your dripping sweat. A fan nearby is highly recommended as well.

Although Minoura trainers are reputed to be among the quieter ones on the market, do expect some running noise from the resistance unit. It is, however, not excessive.

Indoor training on dumb equipment, by itself, is as boring as they say it is. I believe that riders will need some form of distraction in order to keep with the program; I find it essential, and I suspect that many folks quit training because of boredom. Keeping the tunes or podcasts handy is simple and sufficient for me (a radio or iPod played through speakers is fine). Others find that some form of video works for them. Those of you willing to spend more $ can step up to the modern "smart" cycle trainers, which is easily the best solution.

Tire performance and ride quality do not enter into the trainer use equation at all; the only relevant factor is tread durability. As such, you'll want to use the cheapest and toughest wearing tire for training. I have found any old 23mm tires I still have lying around to be perfect in this application. There are trainer-specific tires available, but at CAD$45 and up, why waste the $? I have not used my trainer enough with many different tires to come to a general conclusion about tire wear, but I have noticed that lots of rubber filings are worn off when using a hard rubber compound Specialized Transition. Since the roller is perfectly smooth, this tire wear is due to the roller & resistance unit becoming hot in use. Feb 2010 Update: I've since read Minoura's advisement that having not enough pressure between the tire and roller causes excessive tire wear. This is correct. After adjusting the roller to the Minoura-spec 2mm gap (when the roller is in the disengaged position), tire wear has been dramatically reduced. So my mistake, and kudos to Minoura.

The one annoyance of the HyperMag Alu-LW is that it can creak a little at the QR clamping interface. A bit of oil or grease around the clamp helps, but doesn't completely eliminate the problem (the creaking is in the clamping threads).

In summary, I can say that if you are disciplined enough to stick to the program, a trainer will let you get some riding in during the winter, or any other time weather or time constraints do not permit riding outside. There is a huge convenience factor with home trainers - you can easily get a workout in, anytime you want.

The value received from purchasing a trainer is proportional to the usage level committed, so I cannot make an outright recommendation. You don't want to go so far as to risk burning out, but you must keep the boredom in check to avoid going the other way. If used regularly, there are some fitness and psychological benefits to be had (esp. in the dead of winter). You'll have to decide for yourself whether the luxury of a trainer is worth it - I find mine to be a handy tool.

Blackburn AirStik AS-1 Minipump

Man, I've had this minipump for over 25 years! There's not many things in my cycling kit that have lasted 25 years. My AirStik AS-1 is an older design by today's standards, and you can get much smaller minipumps ("micropumps" by comparison, such as the Blackburn AirStik SL), but it still works perfectly.

If only get one pump, make it a mini. Along with tire levers and a spare tube and/or patch kit, carry it with you wherever you go, and acquire the simple skill to be able repair a flat. Do this, and you'll have the assurance of being able to take care of business yourself, and avoiding being stranded far away from civilization because of a flat.

The minipump's chief attribute is that it is small and easy to carry, the cost being much more physical effort needed to inflate a tire, and most minipumps lack a proper air pressure gauge. Because of this, minipumps should be reserved for emergency in-the-field usage only. The AirStik will work as primary pump if there's no extra room in the budget for a floor pump - I managed with this for a few years back in the 90s, but I'd strongly discourage it. You have to note that the cost barrier to a reasonable quality floor pump is ridiculously low and lower.

Like all Blackburn pumps, the AirStik is rebuildable; replacement parts were easily available, and I picked up a simple rebuild kit for CAD$5 off the LBS peg in the 90s. This support is one of the chief benefits of a Blackburn, although I would not expect to be able to find replacement parts years after a product's discontinuation. You are best advised to think ahead and pick up a parts kit soon after purchase.

Blackburn pioneered the pivoting T handle that considerably improves pumping efficiency and comfort, and this feature became an industry standard. The AirStik is also one of the fewer good quality minipumps on the market with a narrow barrel, i.e. one that can handle the high pressure of road tires (the AirStik is rated to 1100 kpa/160 psi, though 120 psi is more likely to be the practical limit).

My (now retro) 1997 AirStik measures 28.5cm long and weighs 145g. It's easy enough to carry in a jersy pocket, but it's no longer among the smallest pumps you can buy. Twenty five years on, Blackburn's current equivalent model (the AirStik AnyValve) retains the core traditional design. Nowadays you can get a stuningly minimalist design if you're OK with trading off some in use practicality (models from Lezyne, Topeak, and Blackburn's own AirStik line come to mind), and you only need to inflate low-volume road tires. It's tempting to transition to these barely-there micropumps, b/c I rarely ever use my emergency pump anyways (I just don't seem to puncture on the road all that often). Nevertheless, my 1997 AirStik AS-1 remains reasonably portable, and fits fine in my jersey pocket. Keep in mind that the smallest and most minimalist designs are presta valve compatible only, something to be aware of if you need compatiblity with both Shraeder and presta valves.

At CAD$25, the AirStik was neither expensive nor cheap from a purely price standpoint. The AirStik however, has proven to be completely reliable in use, and it can be counted on in an emergency. My experience with cheap minipumps has been overwhelmingly negative - not one has lasted more than a few months when pushed into regular use (which admittedly is a tougher test). The final straw was when I had a CAD$20 Norco imported pump's metal plunger shaft snap when trying to remove the pump from the valve stem. It was the first and last time that I used that pump - a lousy effort on my part to save CAD$5.

Blackburn AirStik SL Micropump (2017)

The AirStik SL is a comically tiny pump, so small and minimalist that I consider these pumps in their own "micropump" class distinct from the traditionally known minipumps. Compared to workhorse floor pumps, these types of pumps are intended to be carried as insurance against on-ride tire punctures. If you're looking for the smallest possible carry for your road rides, but want to avoid those ridiculous single use CO² cartridges, this Blackburn AirStik SL will fit the bill.

The AirStik SL has a barrel diameter of 19.25mm, measures 160mm, and weighs 58g. It is much smaller than what I previously considered compact 1997 AirStik AS-1. The AirStik SL disappears when placed in a jersey pocket.

Of course, compared to that 1997 AirStik AS-1 or any other minipump, you will sacrifice on some features (the AirStik SL lacks Shraeder valve compatibility), and on pumping performance (in a relative sense - no handheld pump will come close to working as well as any floor pump). You will definitely need to work quite hard to get a 700x23-25C road tire up to a ridable 50 psi or so pressure, and you will not be able to assist anyone that's running Shraeder valves (though admittedly, most bikes at the enthusiast level run presta valves).

You have to manually hold the AirStik SL onto the valve, so expect some air loss as you can't perfectly hold the seal the entire time. You'll also need to be careful that you don't end up transferring too much stress onto the valve when pumping. However, for something that gets carried on every ride but is so rarely expected to be actually used, the tradeoffs for the tiny carry are worth it to me.

The AirStik SL is intended for small volume road tires. I would not carry the AirStik SL for my mountain bike rides, deferring to my old AirStik AS-1.

Beto MP-075G Floor Pump (MEC Version)

A floor pump for routine use at home makes inflation chores a breeze. It's possible to hack it out for awhile w/a minipump alone, but in the long term, a floor pump should be a core part of your tool kit. Good, durable floor pumps from branded leaders such as Blackburn or Topeak will provide years of service, and replacement parts are easily available to keep 'em going. On the other hand, even their entry level models cost CAD$50, and some lack the useful features of the MP-075G. The Beto MP-075G pump should be your first consideration for a floor pump.

Is the Beto MP-075G a serious contender or another annoying landfill bound cheapie? In choosing the MP-075G instead of one from the major brand names, the major concession is not features or quality, but dealer network and brand recognition. You may not of heard of Beto, but they are a large manufacturer of pumps, most of which seem to be sold with someone else's name on them (like Park Tool, Planet Bike, Pedro's, Serfas, Innovations Inc., Canadian Tire/Diamondback Canada/Raleigh Canada, etc.). The agreement seems to be that Beto sells under their own name in European and overseas markets, but they basically stay out of North America in exchange for supplying many North American brands, thus keeping these OEM customers happy. The compnay name Beto is short for "Be the Original".

The MEC version of the MP-075G has a retro solid oak handle, instead of the rubber & plastic handle on the standard version. This is mostly cool styling (which has also proven its durability in use), and rest assured that the pump is fully modern. The MP-075G has a wide, stable triangular base, and a high resolution mid-mount gauge (easier to read vs. bottom mount; top mount is better yet, but more expensive). While the covering pad at the MP-075G's base is plastic, its major components (barrel, plunger, and base structure itself) are steel - a key feature. At this price point, these important parts on many other pumps can be made of just plastic. Steel is much more durable, while not being unnecessarily costly (as per the aluminum alloy pumps). The pump is rated to 1100 kPa (160 psi) - good for any road or trail going tire.

Rounding out the notables is the Dual Head adapterless chuck. Older designs required swapping parts in the chuck when moving from Presta to Shraeder valves; the Dual Head eliminates this. Presta valve? Pop it in the small hole. Shraeder, use the large one. It's not that hard to figure out, and the Dual Head works flawlessly.

The rubber grommets in the Dual Head are wear items but are not individually available as replacement parts. Instead, complete replacement OE Dual Heads were sold cheap through MEC. It's CAD$3.50 (listed in the MEC database as the "Beto double thumb lock head"). I bought two spare chucks to have on hand, but I've yet to use them in 12 seasons of continuous use. Pro tip: I used to believe that the Dual Head chuck was not serviceable. It is in fact, possible to disassemble the Dual Head (you have to push out the pin holding the lock lever in place with a punch & hammer), and reverse the two valve grommets. Doing so will effectively double the Dual Head's service life before a complete replacement becomes necessary!

The MP-075G's only real shortcoming is that the hose is a tad short at 63cm. I guess they could have picked classic silver (or something else that's more understated) over the screaming red paint, but that is a matter of personal taste. In any case, neither approach complain-worthy faults.

The MP-075G is sturdy and feels solidly built. The steel construction strikes the right balance between durability and price. Note that the MP-075G is not an exceptionally tall pump. This might draw whines about marginally less air pumped per stroke (who cares?), but I see this as an advantage for both shorter folks, and for the multiude of times I take my pump along travelling.

The MP-075G also works perfectly to keep car tires properly inflated and topped up (though you'll likely need to use a valve extender here). There is absolutely no need to waste $ on either a duplicate pump or a lazy electric powered air compressor. In fact, with the proper inflation adapter or needle, any floor pump could be put to a multitude of general household inflation duties.

My first MP-075G pump developed a small internal leak, after 7 seasons of use. I continued to use it for another 3 seasons, before this seal finally gave up for good. I liked this pump so much, that I replaced it with another MP-075G, at the same CAD$25 price. This 2nd pump has been running flawlessly for 12 years so far; the only maintenance items done involved re-greasing the internal slider once, plus one rubber grommet flip trick in the DualHead.

Most cyclists can't go wrong with the MP-075G, and it's hard to imagine what killer benefit a pricier pump could possibly offer. The MP-075G represents a perfect sweet spot of high quality at a low price. I will go on record as saying that the Beto MP-075G is one of the best and most reliable cycling products I own.

Plano 114 33cm Toolbox

A toolbox? Sure, it's not a necessary item for cycling, and it might be more of a household item per se, but I present it from a cyclist's angle.

Most cyclists, in time and with increasing commitment to cycling, tend to acquire a reasonable array of tools to repair and maintain his or her bike. Having upgraded from a cardboard basket made to carry strawberries, an inexpensive toolbox is a nice way to both transport your tools (both bike and ordinary household), and keep them from being misplaced.

The Plano 114 is a small toolbox at 33cm wide; easy to tote around, yet just long enough to fit a chain whip. Unlike many similar products, it has all of the features expected of a larger toolbox. The Plano 114 has an organizer top for small parts, a lift out tray, plus a hole to accommodate a padlock. The 114 is sturdily made.

Traditionalists may not like the hi-vis orange colour, but it's a very practical choice. Most tools and parts are dark in colour, and so they are very easy to spot against the brighter Plano 114 toolbox. IMHO the 114's colour isn't garish or 80s neon in the least. It works. The 114 is also available in a charcoal colour.

The only true fault of the 114 toolbox is the closing clips of the organizer top. Placing small items with any kind of substantial weight into the organizer top can lead to the clips giving way, once the main toolbox compartment is opened. The net effect is that any small items that were nicely contained in the organizer top, are now strewn around. This is very annoying when it happens. The 114 toolbox is an otherwise durable and useful product, and a good value at CAD$6.

Raleigh Steel Barrel Floor Pump (SKU# 73-4880-6)

Many cyclists on tight budgets eschew a floor pump, and rely on a minipump full time. I did this for years, so I can understand how sometimes there's no allowance for even the (superb value) $35 Beto floor pump. However, there is no need to suffer with a minipump anymore.

If you pay attention to Canadian Tire's regular weekly sales flyer, you can snag a very useful Raleigh branded floor pump for a laughable $10 - probably less than what you paid for your minipump. A reasonable pump sold in the mass market channel for $10? An unlikely set of circumstances, but it's true. This pump offers a useful tool within the grasp of all cyclists.

The Beto pump remains, IMHO, the much better buy; the $35 Beto is a nicer pump with more features and quality touches that make it the better bet for the long term. However, for $10, this Raleigh pump can't be ignored.

The Raleigh floor pump's highlights include a well readable mid-mount pressure gauge (note: the current revision of this pump has a bottom mounted gauge with poorer resolution readout) and a steel barrel. It has a reasonably solid overall construction, and does not feel "cheap". It is rated to 1100 kPa (160 psi), so road bike owners need not shy away (although it does become difficult to pump at pressures starting around 110 psi). The handle is wide and comfortable to use.

Downgrades in comparison to the Beto MP-075G include an all-plastic base and single head chuck (note: the current revision no longer has a built-in fitting for presta valves; you must use the included old-school screw-on adapter instead). As expected for a cycling item sold in the mass market channel, replacement parts are not available. On the flip side, the Raleigh pump does have a longer hose than the MP-075G.

The bottom line is, this workmanlike Raleigh pump works fine. If the all-plastic base, lower-resolution bottom mount gauge, and the need to fiddle with the screw-on adapter for Presta valves are not bothersome to you, you might find this pump sufficient. Otherwise, the Beto MP-075G is the better alternative overall, and carries my recommendation.

So, for anyone still struggling with minipumps because of cost considerations - stay patient and keep your eyes peeled for this Raleigh pump in the weekly Canadian Tire sales flyer. It gets discounted to $10 several times during the season.

Filzer/Sunding dB4L Computer

Filzer is a Canadian-based marketer that aims for the value "sweet spot", i.e. a middle ground between overpriced/overmarketed stuff from the big brands, and the cheap poorly made stuff. Sounds rather similar to my general school of thought.

This dB4L computer is OEM'ed out and similar styles can be found under several brand names. As of the 2018 season, MEC has dropped all of the Filzer computers (you can still order a smattering of OE parts such as magnets and wiring harnesses from the website for the time being). Filzer themselves have dropped cycling computers entirely from their line. The real manufacturer behind the Filzer computers seems to be Sunding Electronic. Just head on over to AliExpress, where their current offerings are easily found at extremely good prices vs. what the branded offerings charge.

The dB4L is a "classic" and non-fancy non-GPS type computer, that relies on a wired harness sensor and spoke magnet. GPS bike computers are definitely neat and are all the rage amongst the sporty set right now, but my biggest problem with them is complexity and the 10x price (for units that have proper GPS mapping overlay). They still cost ~CAD$300-$900 (!) - in other words, an entire entry level bike and beyond. Take for instance the basic CAD$290 Garmin Edge 520 Plus, and it looks like I'll be rather content with classic bike computers for a long time to come.

Note: My general purpose handheld GPS unit suits me better than any combined task-specific bike computer/GPS unit. Through the magic of a handlebar mount, I clip my handheld GPS unit on for those times when I want to add on-board GPS mapping/routing capability when riding. Genius!

I've always used standard 2 line/parameter view cycling computers in the past. This 4 line db4L has complely changed my line of thinking. I've found the the 4 line display so surprisingly superior, that I would not buy a 2 line computer again (more and more computer models are moving beyond the traditional 2 parameter display).

I purchased the db4L as a low-cost interim substitute to get me going until I could find something better (my previous two computers were Cateyes). Expectations were low.

My party with my db4L eventually ended after a 13 year run. Water ingress from being caught out in some light rain showers caused conductor oxidation to the display, resulting in missing segments. The casing appears solidly sealed and not designed to facilitate repair, so I've retired the db4L. I've also replaced the wire harness due to the plastic release tab breaking, at the 8 year mark. Obviously it'd be nicer if the db4L sealed out water better, but I had a good run with it, and it otherwise ran well. I'm now running with with another Sunding computer.

The db4L is your basic mid-line wired traditional bike computer covering all of the 7 baseline computer functions. It's nothing fancy, save for a low price and a 4 line display. This expanded display is a simple idea that will surprise you in its utility the more you use it.

With 4 lines, the db4L only has two display modes. Only one button press is needed to flip through all the available data. Current speed is always shown on the top line. The other data is logically grouped into two modes, shorter term data (average trip speed, trip distance, and trip time) and longer term data (max speed, clock, and odometer).

It is of major utility to be able to view 4 parameters simultaneously. I wouldn't have realized how annoying repeated mode change button pushing on 2 line computers is, until I gave this db4L a try. The 4 line display makes sense - so much so, that I wouldn't want to switch back to a 2 line display computer.

I do my fair share of night riding, and a backlit display would come in handy. So would a provision for adjusting the wheel size without the need for a complete reset. These are the only features of any significance that the db4L is missing. Fancier computers might have cadence, elevation, heart rate, energy burned, temperature, maintenance minder and other info, but none of these parameters are as essential as the baseline 7 functions.

I can definitely suggest the db4L (or other similar Sunding models) as an inexpensive, functional computer with an uber useful 4 line display. Though my db4Ls provided decent service, I can't outright recommend them, as both my db4L head units stopped working after 13 years. I've previously panned the cheapened mount and thinner gauge wiring harness bundled in later revisions, but it turns out my beef was with Filzer's mismatched packaging. Filzer paired the db4L with a slightly mismatched and mis-sized mounting shoe, which was not a secure fit. I haven't run into any durability issue with the cheaper mount itself.

I have both a later and an older revision db4L. The older revision's mount is a solid, screwed on type that holds the computer firmly in place, and in a space-saving offset over the stem. The later revision is a cheap zip-tied version, but it doesn't hold the computer head completely securely in the mounting shoe. The shoe is a smidge wider than the older mount, resulting in a little play when the dB4L is installed. However, my Sunding SD-563B computer fits this mount perfectly, so this is not the right sized shoe for the db4L. I need to use an elastic band to prevent the db4L from flying off this mount mid-ride.

Fear not though, if you don't mind a little additional wire length and expense, you can still get the superior original style mounts via alternative SKUs (it's on clearance though, so time is ticking). Simply order up the CAD$8.40 Filzer DB4LW-C Cadence Wiring Kit, which I've verified that it works perfectly with the db4L.

Sunding SD-563B Computer

After both my Filzer/Sunding dB4L head units quit working after 13 years of service, I was on the search for a replacement cycling computer. Specifically, a, basic, traditional wired non-GPS unit - you know, those simple inexpensive ones that have been reliably getting the job done for cyclists since the late 1980s. I specifically excluded GPS based computers; at ~CAD$300 for actual mapping-capable units, these were still too rich for me, esp. as I already have a perfectly functional handheld GPS unit to use when GPS mapping is called for.

Traditional wired non-GPS cycle computers have become harder to find in shops these days. My only solid requirement was a 4 line display. Since night riding has been a solid part of my life for the past 25 years, a backlit screen this time around would be a nice-to-have feature.

Mainstream selection was surprisingly thin in shops. GPS and wireless computers are now the dominant offerings. The major brands offer 3 but not 4 line screens. Filzer no longer offers any of their Sunding-manufactured computers. I had to go around the major cycling supply distributors controlling the local market, and turn to AliExpress to find a current 4 line Sunding computer that seemed comparable to the dB4L, the SD-563B. The wait for the package to arrive from China was well worth it.

The Sunding SD-563B is a newer and more featureful model vs. the Filzer dB4L. With a little piece of electrical tape to shim a slight gap with the mounting shoe, I can confirm that it is even a drop in fit in the older (and more durable) hard screw-mount style harness that I've been running.

Next to the 4 line screen, the SD-563B's killer feature to me, has to be the excellently implemented backlit screen. I've been night riding for 25 years, and this is the first computer I've owned with a night-readable screen. This has been a huge revelation, and like the 4 line screen, this has now become a must-have feature.

The SD-563B backlight evenly and effectively lights up the screen in a green glow. The contrast is perfect and the screen is as readable as in the daytime. The backlight operation is by default automatic, via an ambient light sensor. Beginning in dusky conditions, the LED backlight automatically activates for 3 seconds whenever a button is pressed. The only change I'd make would be to calibrate the system to activate the backlight a little later (it turns on maybe a 1/2 hour early when there is still enough of ambient light around to read the screen). I've used the backlight liberally over the course of 2 seasons, until the low battery icon appeared, and the backlight got signficantly dimmer. While the computer will still work fine in the daytime, replacing the 2032 lithium coin battery restores the backlight performance.

The notable new-to-me metrics include total accumulated ride time for the season (what Sunding calls "RAT" i.e. riding all time), and current temperature. The temperature sensor works reasonably well, with the caveat that the readout will show high in direct sunlight. This is not so much a design flaw, but a limitation of the sensor being inside the enclosure.

Another significant correction over the db4L is the ability to change the wheel circumference setting without requiring the minor hassle of a system reset. I run 2 sets of wheels on my road bike for paved road and gravel, so this fix benefits anyone running multiple wheelsets.

Sunding prominently claims that the SD-563B is waterproof, which seemed to suggest that the flaw that killed my dB4Ls has been fixed. This is not quite true. After getting caught in a steady rain for an hour, one of my SD-563B's buttons stopped registering pushes. Unlike what happened with my dB4Ls, there was no visible water ingress. After removing the battery cover and allowing the unit to presumably air out for 2 days, the button started working again. So I would regard the SD-563B as water resistant - capable of withstanding modest amounts of water, but not prolonged downpours.

Compared to the dB4L, you will do a little more button pushing in operation. The SD-563B has 3 "pages" of info vs. the dB4L's 2, and it also automatically returns to the main/home screen after 15s or so.

Perhaps the most visible shortcoming of the SD-563B is the limited display precision shown on the odometer and trip meter. One decimal place is shown, but only until 999.9km. Once 1000km is reached, the display shows no decimal places at all. Basically, the LCD display physically needs to have one more digit on that line. Curiously, the large main line showing current speed, unnecessarily has 2 decimal places!

Over 2 complete seasons of use, my SD-563B has had some reliability hiccups - weird unexplained instances where it would freeze or spontaneously reset. This happened about 4 times last season. This is a definite annoyance if you like to maintain your total odometer and total ride time stats for the year.

A neat bonus of the SD-563B is that in addition to ubitquitous black, it is also available in royal blue and canary yellow. If it works with your bike's colourway, these choices offer a different and refreshing splash of colour.

The SD-563B packs all the key functionality that you would want, at an extremely low price. All in all, I can cautiously recommend the Sunding SD-563B if you're looking for a featureful traditional wired cycling computer, if you don't need absolute waterproofing to withstand riding in extended wet conditions, and are willing to tolerate an occasional spontaneous system reset. If Sunding can get these reliability issues sorted, I'd be able to unreservedly recommend the SD-563B.

Topeak Mini6 Micro Multi-tool

This Mini6 micro multi-tool is ridiculously small and light. It measures just 47mm folded, weighs 59g, and even has a ring for attaching to your keychain. If you're after the smallest, most inobtrusive and minimalist multi-tool to have in your emergency carry-along kit, I think this is it.

As the name suggests, the Mini6 offers only 6 tools, but these are the most essential 6. They include:

• #2 (medium) Phillips screwdriver
• 2/3/4/5/6mm hex wrenches

I have the original revision of the Mini6, the ultra short 59g thing. The major disadvantage of something so small, is that the moment arm is also very small. Consequently, in use the Mini6 can require significantly more turning force than what you're used to with common full size hex wrenches or other more mainstream-sized mini tools. Perhaps in recognition of this, the current revision of the Mini6 is a little longer to increase the moment arm, with a slight bump in in weight to 73g.

Continental Ultra Race 700x23C Road Tires (Kevlar Bead Version)

These Ultra Races are actually made in Taiwan, so they're probably made by either Cheng Shin Tire or Kenda for Continental under contract. The Ultra Races are a high performing tire and were a good value at the CAD$32 MEC price. MEC eventually upped the price to CAD$47, which was still well below top end CAD$80 tires.

My Kevlar-beaded Ultra Races are just 205g each in the 23mm size, which is race tire weight and among the lightest tires I've mounted on my wheels. Like the Panaracer Stradius, the Ultra Races roll fast and comfortably; they accelerate fast, and have all the characteristic feel of a race tire. Switching back to these tires in the late spring is a major contrast since they ride and roll much nicer than the Ultra Sports. For those of you who care, the casing is specified at 60TPI.

Continental advertises that the Ultra Races have a SafetySystem breaker. What they mean is that there's an extra nylon/Kevlar belt running under the tread, which is supposed to increase puncture resistance at little performance cost. I can't say that I can tell the difference either way. I've had two punctures (from a the usual glass shards) over a tire life of 10,000 km.

Some cyclists (with too much money it would seem) mindlessly pay full asking price CAD$80+ for the "big name" tires, for only a small performance improvement. The Ultra Races suggest, that for nice tires that are great value for money, we ought to be looking a little closer at Kenda & Cheng Shin Tire (CST). FWIW, CAD$80 is enough to buy a perfectly good all-season P175/65R14 tire for my 2006 Toyota Yaris.

2006 & 2013 Giro Pneumo Helmet

The Giro Pneumo is one of the rare items for which I have made an exception and spent more money than what is necessary. While the value proposition isn't particularly great for this or any other high-end cycling helmet (esp. not those models reaching heights approaching CAD$400 of recent years), the Pneumo is a very nice lid. After a long run in the product line up, it was originally discontinued for 2009. In an unprecedented move, Giro re-released the Pneumo in 2013 (with some subtle updates), for a single year's run. The Pneumo is now a 20 year old design (!), but as design classic of sorts, it has aged gracefully, and remains competitive w/any of today's higher end offerings. As of 2021, remaining inventories of this helmet have disappeared, and it's difficult to find new even on eBay and other secondary markets.

With higher end helmets like the Pneumo, you are buying styling and features, not extra safety. All helmets must be certified to the same safety standards, even the cheapest CAD$10 ones.

The Pneumo is a classic design from 2001. It is still a striking helmet in two respects - appearance and ventilation performance.

I'm actually on my 2nd Pneumo helmet. I ran my orignal Pneumo helmet for eight full seasons (2007-2014). With great amusement and fortuitous timing, in 2014 I was able to snag a 2013 re-release Pneumo as a replacement for my aged original. Helmets can wear down over time (though crucially, the styrofoam itself does not deteriorate from simple age as was once thought!), and if they do they should be replaced, even if not crashed. That's right, the party like it's 2001 is continuing!

I will have to admit that my taste in cycling helmets skewers towards the nicer looking ones. It's just a small form of art I've always appreciated. I'm no fashion Nazi, but given the amount of hours I log on the bike every season, I'd rather not have the distraction of using something that's unnecessarily ugly. It's worth noting that decent helmet styling has trickled down nicely to lower price points over the years.

The Pneumo is (to my eyes), one of the most attractive helmets ever made. Many newer designs have since been introduced, but to me, the Pneumo gives few concessions and still hangs among the best - an amazing feat for a 20 year old design. Sharp eyed cyclists might discern that the slightly elongated profile and tapering point at the Pneumo's top rear hints to an earlier era, where the prevailing style of the day was a more elongated teardrop shape. This is the only real giveaway to the Pneumo's older lineage, as the current trend has evolved towards a rounder and more compact shape. The contrast is more apparent when comparing the Pneumo side-by-side against, say, even the Giro Trinity. The Giro Trinity was introduced in 2014, but sits as the entry point in Giro's helmet lineup.

The other thing about the Pneumo that you'll immediately notice is the ventilation. Those giant vents make the Pneumo the most ventilated helmet I've ever owned. This is very much appreciated in warmer weather. The Pneumo has huge intake and exhaust vents, and looking from the inside, it almost seems like there's more holes than helmet.

Another key to ventilation is the fact that the Pneumo only really comes down to contact your head at the forehead and rear stabilizer (aka the "Roc Loc", 2013 re-release models sport the updated "Roc Loc 5"). This gives room for air to flow through helmet and over your head.

One whimisical side effect of how the Pneumo sits on your head - strangely reduced "helmet head"! This is a major departure from my previous helmets. It makes me laugh a bit sometimes, when I see how suprisingly modest helmet head I get after a multi-hour ride.

Of course, none of this will do you any good if the Pneumo doesn't fit you properly. The Roc Loc 5 stabilizer works well and gives a comfortable hold. The Pneumo has been made with 3 sizes (the majority of adults will fit a size M). My original size M sample from 2006 weighs a reasonable 304g, and the visor (which I only use for short commutes when it's lightly raining) adds another 16g.

The Pneumo is a very rare road marketed helmet that comes with a detachable streamlined visor (i.e. it's not as huge as those found on mountain marketed helmets). To be honest though, I never bother to use this on my typical rec road rides. I do however, find it handy in short commutes in a light drizzle or rain shower, since it really does reduce the amount of vision-obscuring water hitting my glasses.

The 2013 re-release version of the Pneumo has some subtle improvements on the originals. The re-releases retain the identical exterior shape, but internally have a bit less styrofoam at the inside rear top area. The retention system has been upgraded to the more streamlined Roc Loc 5, and the webbing has been changed to the lighter and thinner fabric typical of that used in today's upper end helmets. All told, these changes pare the weight down to 269g (without visor) for my size M sample - a small difference compared to the original Pneumo.

In practical use, the 35g weight drop on paper isn't all that noticeable b/c of the weight distribution. The weight drop in the webbing and Roc Loc 5 doesn't translate into a much different feel, since the bulk of the mass remains in the styrofoam perched on top of your head, and that part is mostly unchanged. You can find lighter helmets these days in the 220g range, but we're firmly into luxury territory at this point. Personally, I don't find any lid up to around 300g bothersome whatsoever.

While I very much like my Pneumo helmet, I cannot make an outright recommendation due to its (traditionally considered) hefty price. However, with the current market in high end helmets now astonishingly pushing the CAD$400 mark, I never thought there would come a day where the ~CAD$150 Pneumo could suddenly be considered a bargain in comparison. You make the call.

So, if you've ever felt self-conscious with a bike helmet, you have to give the Pneumo a look. It's a double cure for unattractive design and helmet head. If you've ever been frustrated by a poorly ventilating bike helmet on a hot summer's day, consider the Pneumo. It gives you one less thing to be distracted over, making your cycling more comfortable and enjoyable.

2013 CCM/Innovative Sports Nexus S166 Helmet (Canadian Tire #073-4552-8; was also sold as the MEC Mid Town)

Exustar E-SM321 Cycling Shoes

Shimano SH-MT31 Cycling Shoes

Taylor 3801 Digital Kitchen Scale

This Taylor 3801 digital kitchen scale is one of those sleeper purchases. I originally bought this as a low cost tool to objectively determine bike stuff weights, both as a matter of curiosity, and to determine if any weight savings could easily be made. The 3801 scale is a great all-round household tool for weighing all kinds of small to medium sized items.

The Taylor 3801 scale one of many small household scales, which can be found in the kitchen items aisle at all the major national retailers (e.g. Wal-mart, Target, Home Hardware, Canadian Tire, etc.). Typical everyday prices run from $20-$40, but you'll pay less if you're patient and watch the weekly flyers for sales (lowest price I've yet seen is ~CAD$10). Digital kitchen scales are fairly routine things, the biggest variances between models are simply size/compactness, weighing capacity, and price.

Park Tool sells their own branded version of the small scale (the Park DS-2), but it has a lesser capacity of 3kg. I can see no reason to purchase the DS-2 over a regular household version, unless you like to pay money (for a Park brand blue premium) for nothing.

The Taylor 3801 is a compact and easy-to-use scale, finished in an unobtrusive silver and grey colour. It can be set to display in grams or pounds, and it has a tare feature. It measures and displays to a resolution of 1 gram.

The 3801 has a higher capacity of 5kg (many scales are limited to 3kg). It is powered by a single lithium 2032 coin battery, which is included.

The 3801 is simple and works well. It weighs all kinds of bike parts and accessories, quickly and easily. In fact, there's almost no limit to what it can weigh around the house, as long as the item is 5kg or less.

One of the most useful applications of the 3801 scale is determining exactly how much it will cost to send a package through the mail, so no more surprises at the postal counter. Canada Post charges by destination, package size, and weight. Knowing all these parameters makes it simple to look up the exact freight cost, per Canada Post's published tables. This is a fantastic convenience (and maybe an essential one for eBay enthusiasts) that eliminates all guesswork.

There are a few minor inconveniences w/the Taylor 3801 scale. The first that comes to mind, is that the scale always defaults to pounds when the unit is switched on; a second button press is required to change to grams. What makes this a greater shortcoming is the fact the unit self powers-off quickly. Finally, it would have been better if the unit would take a standard 2 AAA or 2 AA power source, which would be more economical and longer lasting, vs. a single 2032 lithium coin cell. At least 2032 batteries are extremely common, available at Dollarama and other dollar stores at ~$1 per 3pk (you'll get ripped off at CAD$4-$5 for a brandedsingle pack battery at the regular national mass merchant stores).

All in all, the Taylor 3801 digital scale is a useful little gadget.

Kenda Blue Groove/Nevegal 2.1" Tires (OE Wire Bead Version)

MEC Pinna Cycling Vest

This is another one of those things where I hesitated on buying due to the price, but after getting it I wondered what took me so long.

This is just a simple nylon cycling vest. It's very thin, light, and stuffable into a jersey pocket (or an old water bottle cut off at the neck). Part of the back panel is mesh (for ventilation), but doesn't look it (a nice touch). It's made out of recycled polyester, and has white reflective accents on the front and back (a major plus for enhanced night time visibility in motor traffic).

There's tremendous utility in this simple vest. There are many times where a full windbreaker jacket is too warm, and a bare jersey too cold. Often I find that during a ride, just a little more warmth is needed to start or finish off a ride. The Pinna vest is perfect for this. It makes the difference between finishing a ride comfortably warm in the waning evening, and rolling in feeling frozen.

After realizing the quality and locally produced nature of the Pinna vest, I don't have a problem with paying little more $ for it, but not everyone sees it this way. Given the utility and "difference maker" quality of the product, I can definitely suggest this if you're regular cyclist. Unfortunately, MEC no longer sells the Pinna vest (they do sell a full jacket version instead).

Continental Grand Prix 4000 700x23C Tires

This is my first foray & test of high end road tires. After a good experience with Continental's mid line Ultra Race tires, I decided to give the high end Grand Prix 4000s a try. I wanted to gauge the experience, even though I've always been a tad leery of the value proposition that this category offers.

The Grand Prix 4000 has been a long running product in Continental's line. It's been one of Continental's higher end offerings, and my 700x23C samples weigh in at ~205g per tire. TPI is 110.

For a higher end tire, the Grand Prix 4000s seem to have a thicker, longer running tread to them. For the first 2000 km, I found my samples to be on the slow side, esp. when coming from a well worn set of Continental Ultra Race tires. With additional tread wear, the Grand Prix 4000s began rolling as fast as I'd expect from race oriented tires. I can't tell much difference in grip and overall ride and running quality vs. the mid line Ultra Races.

Being a ligher weight rider, I've been getting around 2 to 3 seasons of use out of race tires, wearing out the tread around 10,000 km. More typically though, I've had to retire tires earlier due to sidewall damage. So it's been a surprise that I've been able to run 4 complete seasons and 18,000 km on my Grand Prix 4000s, giving them the unusual combination of long-running race tires. So I've actually gotten my money's worth out of my Grand Prix 4000s, despite the steeper CAD$75 purchase price.

All in all, I can't tell much apart in day-to-day running b/w my previous Ultra Races vs. these pricier Grand Prix 4000s. If you're able to similarly squeeze out a long service life out of these tires, it makes them a good value actually. Just keep in mind that sidewall damage risk on any tire means that long service life is never assured.

Tioga City Slicker 26" x 1.25" Tires

There aren't that many inexpensive cycling upgrades out there that truly transform your experience. If you're one of the masses using a mountain bike as an urban pavement runabout, switching out those stock knobby tires for a slick tire has to be one of the best single upgrades in cycling land.

Most mountain bikes sold are ridden on urban streets, not rugged off-road trails. Mountain bikes are the preeminent style of bicycle in North America. It's the default style that average consumers tend to buy, esp. for new folks looking for an inexpensive way to start out, whether or not they plan to actually use them off-road (although in recent years, there's been a welcome uptick in hybrid and urban style bikes that are much better suited for city use). For whatever reason you may be using a mountain bike in the city, changing out the stock knobby-style tires for slick tires like the Tioga City Slickers, has to be one of the best upgrades you can make, period.

The Tioga City Slickers are an inexpensive but decent quality 60TPI wire beaded slick tires for 26" tired mountain bikes. They're a classic that's been in Tioga's product line for 25 years. They're made in Taiwan, so the actual manufacturer is probably Cheng Shin Tire or perhaps Kenda.

The City Slickers are made in several widths, but without hesitation I chose the narrowest 1.25" in MEC's selection for maximum rolling efficiency and weight savings (my samples weigh just 402g & 405g). I recommend this 1.25" size over the 1.5" & 1.75" tires.

The City Slickers measure out slightly wider than advertised, at an actual width of ~33.6mm or 1.325" on Weinmann ZAC1900 19/25mm (inside/outside width) rims. This puts it in in the range of a typical hybrid bike tire. I come from a road cycling background where I run 225g 25mm wide road tires, so I already consider this 1.25" width tire as hugely beefy and abuse resistant for pavement and gravel road running. Note that Tioga does list a crazy 1" 250g version in their catalog that MEC never carried.

I happen to have an ultra inexpensive "Arashi" branded mountain bike that I use as a wet weather bike and thief-unappealing urban utilitarian runabout. This bike's stock tires were a Kenda K831 wire-beaded variety for the low cost market. These 26" x 1.95" tires were patterned after the old Ritchey Alpha Bites. The K831s had a continuous center strip, a design concession to make them roll better and more quietly on pavement vs. a true off-road conditions knobby tire. However, at 845g & 874g, these K831s were surprisingly heavy.

I used my Arashi Celsius bike, and its stock K831s, in pavement and dirt road conditions for a little over one season. While I was thankful to have the freedom of having a bike to ride in wet conditions without worry, I found the Celsius slow, heavy, and honestly, not a whole lot of fun to ride. Knowing how much tires affect a bike's ride, I wondered how much a narrower, slick treaded tire could improve things. The Tioga City Slickers seemed to be a good place to start.

The City Slickers instantly transformed the Celsius. The Celsius went from being a total dog, to something that's actually reasonable to ride in the city - which is quite the compliment for a 13.5kg bottom-of-the-line CAD$150 bike from Sport Chek. The City Slickers cut the bike's stock tire weight in half, leaving a dramatic effect on the bike's handling and acceleration ability. The 1.25" City Slickers, with its slick tread, still rides OK on packed dirt and gravel - though obviously the looser the surface, the less suitable they will be vs. a knobby tire.

While the City Slickers can't turn a mountain bike into a true road bike, they will get you about as close as you're going to get. They'll instantly make your mountain bike much faster and much more efficient for pavement running. I can definitely recommend the City Slickers (or any other similar slick treaded tire) for your city-bound mountain bike. Do steer clear of the many slick treaded tires that tip the scales at surprisingly heavy weights (800g-1000g).

Michelin Pro4 Service Course 700x23C Tires (pre-2015 "V1")

The Michelin Pro4 Service Courses are my 2nd experience w/higher end race tires. They are also my 1st exposure with Michelin branded tires, bicycle or car. Contrary to popular belief, Michelin no longer makes their own bicycle tires at their French factories. Instead, they are all manufactured under contract (reportedly in its own exclusive wing, whatever that means) at the Vittoria owned Lion Tyres facility in Thailand.

Michelin branded tires IMHO have always been priced rather "generously" for what you get, seemingly due solely to the branding. Most shops seem to like to charge the full CAD$80/ea for the Pro4 Service Courses, though I've also seen them regularly priced as low as CAD$60. Tempted w/a ~$50/ea clearout price (which is more typical for mid-line tires), I purchased several samples to try.

Michelin offered several variants of the Pro4. The Service Course is the all-round balanced model, suitable for the widest spectrum of uses. The formerly mainstream sized 700x23C Service Course is also offered in a variety of different coloured sidewalls/casing fabric (this being just before 700x25C became the new mainstream road tire size). Presented with this choice, I opted for the royal blue variants just for fun. They simply offer a look that's a little different from the standard black; everything else about them is identical.

A number of other reviewers have noted that the Pro4 tires are a fair margin wider than their listed size, which I can confirm. My samples still measure out to be 24.1mm wide on my narrow 14.0mm Formula Xero XSR-3 rims. I think the extra width here is a good thing, offering a tad bit more comfort compared to a narrower tire. I've run with 20mm wide tires in the past, in the city no less, and I won't ever do that experiment again.

Like the Continental Grand Prix 4000s, the Pro4s have a thicker tread to them that you might not expect for a race tire. Heavier riders wary of racing tires being too thinly treaded might want to take note. Despite the thicker tread, the Pro4s still roll very comfortably and reasonably quickly. As you might expect, speed picks up as the tread wears down.

Weighing two of my samples, they checked in at 203g & 207g, within tolerance w.r.to Michelin's 200g spec weight. The casing TPI is 110. Michelin advertises the Pro4s as a "dual compound" tire, meaning that a softer rubber is used at the sides, and a harder rubber is used down the middle. I don't really notice a difference between the Pro4s and any of my other single compound tire experiences. However, I'm not a high speed high risk cornering kind of guy to begin with.

After running 1 1/2 seasons and 8000 km, I noticed and felt a bulge in one of my Pro4s. A quick examination of the tire showed that this was due to a tear in the casing, underneath the tread (the only other time I've experienced something similar was with a pair of IRC Paperlite Plus tires from almost two decades ago). A changeout was immediately necessary, as a complete casing blowout was imminent. A few points of fraying fabric was also observed in the sidewalls, suggesting a weakening overall structure expected of normal aging, but a little early in just 1 1/2 seasons of use.

This definitely qualifies an early failure. There was lots of treadwear left on the table. Tempering all this somewhat is the lower price I paid for my Pro4s, and I did come close to the 10,000 km tread wearout mark I managed to achieve w/a pair of Panaracer Stradiuses and Continental Ultra Races.

To quickly get rolling again, I decided to crack open my 2nd pair of identical Pro4 Service Course V1 tires from my parts inventory, and give the Pro4s another try. As if on schedule, I experienced another bulging casing failure on the rear tire, again at about 1 1/2 seasons/8,000 km. On the front tire, there's a small spot where the casing has begun to separate under the tread, and the rubber has cracked all along the side of the tread (what's known as "ozone cracking" or "ozonation").

These are tires that have not been abused or harshly stored. Again, the damage in both cases is significant enough to require binning the tires well before tread wearout. As a rider that wears tread slowly, otherwise reasonable tires that suffer early casing failures has been an ongoing pet peeve of mine. I realize it can be hard to achieve high performance without making compromises in durability.

To conclude my Pro4 Service Course V1 experience, they are a nice riding tire for awhile, until casing disintegration forces early retirement. Michelin made another revision ("V2") of this tire that supposedly offers greater ozone resistance and thus perhaps greater resistance to the failures I experienced. I would suggest avoiding the V1 revision tires (that come packaged in a small white box) and trying the V2 tires instead (packaged in a larger blue & yellow box). Michelin's closest current equivalent model is the Power Endurance (which itself has been replaced with the Power Road). As of the end of 2021, if you still really want your 23mm Pro4 tires, leftovers can still be found from some online shops at closeout pricing.

FSA Omega OS-168 Stem

Well, it's a stem. It's light, it works, and it's got graphics subdued enough not to be ugly. It connects your handlebars to your fork's steerer tube. It's ovalized in the vertical direction, which is supposed to make it more flex resistant in the vertical plane (can't say any normal person is going to notice). Bonus: it has a classy understated look.

What's remarkable is that this is the supposed entry/least expensive model in FSA's line of stems. You can pay 2x, 3x, 4x and more for a stem, and you'll see little to no functional difference (many of FSA's own pricier stems are in fact heavier). I simply don't see any point in looking beyond this humble Omega stem.

The Omega stem is made for the current mainstream "oversized" 1 1/8" steerer tube and 31.8mm handlebar interface diameters. Two rises are offered: either the defacto standard 6 degrees, or 17 degrees. Lengths go from 60mm to 130mm in 10mm increments, though the 17 degree version has a reduced range from 60mm to 90mm. All Omega sizes have the common 40mm stack height.

FSA officially markets the 6 degree rise Omega OS-168 stem for road usage, while the 17 degree rise version is indicated for mountain usage. I have no idea why there would be any distinction as such; a 6 degree rise is commonly seen on road bikes as well as racier mountain bikes. A 17 degree rise is often spec'd to give a less agro position on less racing oriented mountain bikes, but it could also be just as easily flipped around to get a crazy low pro racing position on a road bike (though taller riders might find the max length 90mm of the 17° variant too short). Pay no heed to the ad copy making the artificial distinction; choose the rise that gives you the best fit.

My 6 degree rise/70mm length sample weighs in at just 120g, which is pretty lightweight, and unexpectedly so given the modest price. It replaces my 6 degree rise/90mm length stock stem - an Easton EA30 (also their entry model) that was a surprisingly weighty 161g.

So there you have it. While inexpensive and merely "entry level", the Omega OS-168 stem is a super value, and perfect for the job.

Panaracer GravelKing 700x32C Tires

For the 2018 cycling season, I wanted to start doing some gravel road and rail trail running. As most of you know, riding gravel terrain on drop bar bikes has been a hip thing since about 2013 or 2014, complete with a growing category of specialized bikes called "gravel" or "adventure" bikes (isn't every bike an "adventure" bike?). Of course, gravel riding is nothing new; cyclists have been riding longer distances off pavement with a drop bar bike in decades past.

Buying a new "gravel bike" was totally unnecessary, esp. b/c these are only slightly different from my workhorse endurance road bike. In order to get my 2007 Giant OCR1 gravel ready, just a single change to higher volume tires (plus tubes) is needed. Since I was going through the trouble of this exercise, I wanted to fit a tire as wide as I could, but avoid a heavy/overbuilt and dead riding touring style tire. Tires play a large role in how a bike rides, so I was willing to pay a reasonable sum for good quality ones.

My OCR1 has Tektro R730 long reach brakes, and a frame that's capable of fitting larger tires than the typical 23mm and 25mm road going widths. Most current endurance road bikes with standard short reach calipers can now eke in 28mm tires, but my OCR1 has enough room for a smooth profile 30-32mm wide tire. I've tried an urban 700x32C CST Corporal tire with modest treading (actual width on 14mm Formula Xero XSR-3 rims = 32.3mm), and a cyclocross style 700x31C Vittoria Terreno Dry with side knobs (actual width = 32.2mm), but the side knobs on both rubbed the OCR1's fork in front. Both of these tires did fit on the rear however.

Panaracer has offered a tire specifically to expand road going bikes into gravel and off road running territory, known as the GravelKing. This original variant of the GravelKing (originally dubbed the "GravelKing" with no suffix, and also retroactively called the "GravelKing Slick") is available in 23, 26, 28, 32, 35, and 38mm widths, and has a smooth profile with a file tread (Panaracer has since discontinued the questionably useful 23mm tire, and introduced additional varieties to the GravelKing line, the "GravelKing SK", "GravelKing SS", "GravelKing EXT", and "GravelKing AC").

Since 2018, Panaracer has been making an annual tradition of releasing a limited production batch of the widest GravelKings and the 32, 35, and 38mm GravelKing SK (2022 added the GravelKing SS) with coloured treads, to give your bike a different and interesting look. Expect availability of each year's batches to taper off in time.

Panaracer's road tires are reputed to run small. I first tried the 28mm GravelKings, but they left oodles of clearance room on my OCR1. Installed on my 14mm internal width Formula Xero XSR-3 rims, the 28mm GravelKings measured just 25.7mm after initially inflating them to 100psi.

Going up to the 32mm size and inflating to the stated 95psi maximum (as a test; you wouldn't want to actually run at such a high pressure!), the actual width of this tire measured out to 31.0mm, much closer to its stated size vs. the 28s. Left for a few days, the tires stretched out to a 31.4mm actual width. This is the maximum width tire I'm comfortable running with on my OCR1, leaving ~1mm of clearance at the front forks. If you're going to be mud bogging it or also want to run full fenders, you'd have to size down to a 28mm tire. My samples weighed 275g and 280g, which is superb for this width of tire. Basic wire beaded 23mm road tires come in at 300-400g.

The GravelKing has a reasonably high 120TPI spec for its casing. The internal puncture protection belt, which usually runs just under the tread for most on road tires, is extended from bead to bead. The sidewalls have a thin layer of protective rubber for extra durability, and I don't expect any sidewall disintegration troubles in time - a problem I seem prone to experiencing with the more minimalist lightweight, high performance class of paved road tires. The GravelKing is offered in both a standard black and a retro brown coloured sidewall.

The GravelKing works. I can comfortably take my OCR1 out all day on crushed stone rail trails, and on any gravel road that's traversable with a standard passenger car. They ride vastly better than any narrow 23-25mm tire in these conditions. The modest file tread's might seem questionable at first glance, but it actually does provide improved traction and surefootedness in dirt over a slick treaded tire. There is something oddly grin-worthy about riding and thriving with a formerly paved road restricted bike on dirt.

What about on road manners? Well, this was a major consideration of mine too, since I still run a significant amount of on road kms on my GravelKings. Despite bizzare claims to the contrary, it's unavoidable that you'll trade off on some paved smooth road speed when jumping to a much wider tire with a more reinforced casing. The 700x32C GravelKings also run ~100g more per wheel vs. my 700x25C road tire setup, when you include the wider tubes needed. On smooth pavement, if you're used to the smooth silent running from slick tires, you'll definitely feel and hear a faint buzz from the GravelKings' file tread. As a subjective guess, I'd say my GravelKings run ~0.5-1km/h slower on pavement vs. my pure 700x25C road tire & wheel setup.

While the GravelKings don't match the speed, nimbleness, and overall "zing" of a good road-only setup, they limit the difference to as small as what's possible. You will certainly do much worse with a more treaded gravel/cyclocross tire, or a heavy duty urban or touring type tire. The 32mm GravelKings don't go as far as completely deadening the ride of a nice road bike in the same way a cheap, heavy, stiff casing 23/25mm road tire would do. The GravelKing's small on-road speed trade off is very much worth it, as long as you're taking advantage of what a wider tire opens up for you.

Also note that the 700x32C GravelKings are a much more comfortable and controlable tire over rough and broken pavement vs. a narrower pure road tire. This makes the 700x32C GravelKings also suitable for any road bike that sees alot of poorly maintained and beat up roads. The 32mm GravelKings also deserve strong consideration for cold season riding into the late fall, where speeds and distances start to shrink, while reliable & comfortable running take greater focus. That's exactly what I do - come November, I start running my 700x32C GravelKings full time to close out the season.

Micheln Power Endurance 700x25C Tires

The Michelin Power Endurance is a nice quality balanced road tire suitable for everyday all-round use. Tests show that it's not the fastest or highest performing tire, but it offers a comfortable ride, decent peformance, and extended treadlife at a reasonable price. In short, it's a nicer riding tire that's still practical to run.

It took some time for the the market and manufacturers to move the mainstream road tire width up to 25mm. Compared to the previous 23mm standard, a 25mm tire is actually a little faster in real world usage, but more noticeable is the increase in ride comfort. I had a small inventory of 23mm tires to use up, so I was slower to move to 25mm tires. 25mm tires are indeed better in all key attributes, and I won't go back to 23mm tires again. The Power Endurance measures almost 26mm on my 15mm internal width Shimano RS11 rims.

One unusual aspect of Michelin's road tire line is the offering of coloured sidewalls, although it's limited to the most popular 25mm size across the line (23mm and 28mm fans are out of luck). You will find coloured sidewall offerings in the entry Dynamic, mid-line Lithion, and the upper end Power Endurance. The Power Endurance has red, royal blue, and white coloured sidewall options. While some makers offer coloured treads (igniting some debate whether it meaningfully affects running performance), colour on the sidewalls (i.e. merely a change in fabric dye) is nothing beyond a cosmetic indulgence. If it works with your bike's colourway, these colours offer a fun and different look. Otherwise, standard black of course remains available. I like the royal blue sidewalls, and it's a bit disappointing that Michelin no longer offers this colour in it's current 25mm Power Road offering.

Durability of higher end race oriented road tires has been a long standing issue with me (and I'm a lightweight rider who isn't hard on tires). While I love the running performance and comfort of higher end race oriented tires, I chronically find myself retiring this class of tire early due to sidewall damage; usually in less than 2 seasons, and far before actually wearing out the tread. This is definitely annoying given the high prices of higher end tires, but it's always a risk when running more fragile high perfomance tires. As a fairly lightweight rider, I've otherwise gotten 10,000 km tread life for the three pairs of thinly treaded race oriented tires where I've managed to avoid casing failure (if you're wondering, these tires were the Panaracer Stradius, Continental UltraRace, and Continental Grand Prix GP4000). So 2 seasons/10,000 km is my own arbitrary durability benchmark.

Once again, I've taken some sidewall damage on one of my Power Endurance tires, significant enough to cause minor bulging. The damage appears to be from hitting the inevitable stray pebbles you'll come across on the road, as opposed to the quality issues I experienced with my early Pro4 failures. I probably should replace the tire and not risk another complete casing failure, but I've kept a watchful eye on it in the hopes of wearing out the tread.

The verdict is in: I've been able to get 15,000 km and 3 seasons out of my Power Endurance tires. A little short of the my treadlife record (18,000 km/4 seasons from Continental Grand Prig GP4000s), but a complete run that's given me my money's worth.

Pearl Izumi Quest Short Sleeve Jersey (2017)

I own several cycling jerseys. They are bar none the best and most suitable tops to wear when you're on the bike, vastly superior to the typical cotton T-shirts that I started out with. My most noteworthy jerseys are CAD$100 expensive, but those are amazingly well ventilated for crazy comfort on long rides during the hottest summer days. They sometimes have cool team graphics that just make you feel a tad sharper and a tad faster. Yet I also count my simple and understated Pearl Izumi Quest jersey among my favourite jerseys.

The Quest is Pearl Izumi's basic entry level jersey. At full current season retail pricing, it's not dirt cheap, but not expensive either. Where you will score a good deal, is if you're smart and patient enough to wait until late summer/early fall, when Pearl Izumi allows clearout pricing on prior seasons' colours.

In contrast to the more up market offerings, the Quest has a simple, understated look. Personally, I find most of the pricier cycling jerseys to be rather loud, garish, horendeously overstyled, and somewhat embarassing out in public (frankly many of these can be found higher up within Pearl Izumi's own product line). Nothing about the Quest's look boldy screams "cycling wear".

The Quest isn't designed to be cleverly disguised in the appearance of everyday wear, not in the same vein that Shimano's refreshing Transit urban look line does (BTW, Shimano owns Pearl Izumi). The Quest has the appearance of standard civilian activewear though, and thus it doesn't trigger much attention when you're out and about in public. It quietly blends into life without much fuss, and it's a perfectly good style to be rocking out in the urban landscape with - commuting, running errands, hanging out at the local library, etc., in addition to your rec rides.

I find the classic type cycling jerseys to be a bit of an adventure to size. It's hard to pin down general rules of thumb. There's a big variance in sizing and cut styles, and personal preferences in terms of closeness of fit vary. Traditionally, cycling jerseys are sized smaller than regular street wear. making them better suited to the application. More generous sizing is available for cyclists who dislike the skin tight fit designed for pure athletic pursuits. My preference is for the "semi-pro" fit.

Pearl Izumi classifies the Quest's fit as "semi-form". This means that it is designed with a close tailored fit in a narrower cut than "relaxed" or "club" fits, but not so far as a tight "pro" or compressing "race/aero/body" fit. I already have a size M Pearl Izumi "semi-form" fit 2013 Select Thermal long sleeve that fits me very well. But the size M Quest was much too big, and I had to go down to a size S Quest to get the fit comparable to my long sleeve piece. There was an unusually big gap in width between the Quest S and M sizes. I'm not sure if jersey sizing has crept up over the years, because my size S Quest is the same size and fit as some of my other decade old performance cut size M jerseys.

As an entry level jersey, the Quest's polyester fabric weave is both a little heavier and a little plain vs. the super thin and ultra ventilated types that's available with today's top end technology. In Pearl Izumi nomenclature, this is their "Select" class of fabric. Sun blocking ability is specified at a super high UPF 40+, and the fabric weight is quoted at 130 g/m² (as a comparison, my most ventilated jerseys have a UPF 20 and 15, and a fabric weight of 110 and 120 g/m²). Still, I'd say that the Quest's fabric is a shade more porous and ventilated compared to your typical performance sweat wicking type activewear shirt found at your local Stuff or Sporting Goods Mart.

The Quest is suitable for temps starting at about 15°C and up. You can wear the Quest on hot summer days, and it will be far superior and more comfortable than any civvy cotton T-shirt. However, as the temperature creeps beyond the 24°C mark and esp. if the summer sun is beating down on you, the difference in cooling and comfort compared to a more ventilated jersey becomes more pronounced; the more challenging the conditions (multi-hour rides in ever increasing afternoon temps and sun), the more noticeable this gap grows. This difference is made possible with newer and more sophisticated fabric technology and construction developed over the past 15 years or so.

It's not to say that the Quest is unbearable in the summer heat - it feels very similar to my other basic jerseys in these conditions. It's just that if you ride enough and can swing it in your budget, you'll feel a noticeable improvement in cooling and comfort with more ventilated higher end jerseys on long summer daytime rides. In fairness it was my pick for the Quest in a dark navy blue colour, for fashion and nostalgia purposes (one of my first cycling jerseys was the same colour, and I happen to like the understated combo of a dark blue jersey with standard black shorts). Obviously this dark coloured Quest is warmer in the sun vs. the same jersey in a lighter colour.

One thing to note if you fit in a size S like I do - this particularly affects the size small, and not the medium and larger sizes - the rear jersey pockets are unusually small. This limits carrying capacity needed on long rides. The outside width of the pockets follow along the edge of the widened side panels, making the pockets narrow to begin with, and narrowing further towards the top. The size S Quest's pockets measure just 29-34cm wide and 12.5-15cm deep overall. The overall pocket size of my other jerseys of similar armpit-to-armpit width as the Quest check in at 34.5-37cm wide, and 16.5cm-17.5cm deep. They're also fully rectangular in shape, and don't taper off towards the top.

Hence, I can't carry quite as much in my Quest as per every one of my other jerseys. The Quest's pockets are stuffed to the max for my keys, cell phone, micro tool, micro pump, spare tube pack, and the 4-6 pieces of food I'll consume on a 5-6 hr ride. Any more than that, and I'll have to grab a different jersey.

2019 Update: This problem has been corrected in the 2019 Quest jerseys, thanks to Pearl Izumi reverting to the standard rectangular pocket design.

Finally, as a final subtle functional touch, the Quest has a small silver strip of silver reflective fabric tastefully and stategically placed underneath the rear pockets. It's definitely not as significant as a purpose-built reflective piece of course, but it does add some welcome supplemental rearward visibility in traffic on after dark rides. In the daytime, the reflective strip simply looks like an understated styling accent. I think this is a really nice touch, and I wish my other jerseys had this!

Louis Garneau Equipe Short Sleeve Jersey (Team Canada 2008 Beijing Summer Olympics Graphics)

Right off the bat, I need to emphasize that you can't actually buy this particular Team Canada 2008 Beijing Summer Olympics style anymore. Styles and colours keep changing every year, and this one was no different (I bought this jersey in summer 2009). The exact fabric, cut, and fit also get revised over time. Still, I thought it would be useful to review this jersey as an example of what nice pluses can be found in the more expensive jerseys.

The main reason I bought this jersey is for its special style and graphics. Louis Garneau has been the official cycle wear supplier to Cycling Canada and members of the national team dating back to the 80s. This isn't the actual high-end team issue jersey (you had to make the national team to get one of those), but it was the only official replica jersey with the same graphics that Louis Garneau offered for consumers to buy.

Louis Garneau Equipe 2008 Beijing Olympics Rear

If you're at all familiar with Canadian cycling at the national level, you'll know that the defacto colours for the Team Canada kit since at least the 70s has been a predominately baby blue, with red maple leaves and accented with a bit of white and red. I'm not sure how baby blue ended being the dominant colour - it's not a colour that evokes a national designation for anyone other than some of us in the Canadian cycling community. It is what it is, and baby blue has dominated the Canadian cycling kit for at least 40 years. The origin of the baby blue remains unclear - Cycling Canada offers a possible theory, but the baby blue is nowhere near the shade of flag blue. Not not exactly a (pun intended) watertight argument.

To my eyes, mostly baby blue has never been a particularly attractive fashion combo when combined with red and white secondary colours. It certainly isn't iconic in the way that a red and white combo is to the national identity.

While there is a "standard" national team jersey design worn for the majority of competitive events throughout the season, Louis Garneau and Cycling Canada typically unveil an event-specific design for the major once-every-few-years sporting events - namely the Olympic Games, the Commonwealth Games, and Pan American Games. For the 2008 Beijing Summer Olympic Games, Cycling Canada broke from cycling tradition in introducing a jersey with no baby blue whatsoever.

Louis Garneau Equipe 2008 Beijing Olympics Side Script ("Canada" in Chinese)

The 2008 Beijing Olympics design had a white base with red and black graphics, a classic Canadian palette instantly recognizable the world over. It's much more attractive and timeless to my eyes. Another very unique touch is the side panel graphics. Here, you'll find "Canada" written in Chinese to honour the host nation. Markings specific to the host country are rarely ever used, and if they are, they don't extend beyond a tiny accent and aren't integral to the jersey. All told, this 2008 Beijing Olympics design is both refreshingly different yet classic at the same time (at least to me).

With that background in mind, when Louis Garneau offered the 2008 Beijing Olympics design replica to buy (in the Equipe model), it qualified as one of those rare times where it was worth snapping up at the full in-season retail pricing. Sadly, there has not been a national design as nice since.

The cut is definitely slim but not tight. The size M measures 49cm armpit-to-armpit. It works for me, though I need to be in peak season fitness for it to look flattering (and as you'll see, the full benefits of this jersey won't get realized anyways until the hot weather hits).

The funny thing is, not realizing that there have been improvements in the fabrics and knits used in cycling jerseys through the years, I didn't see fit to pay much attention to the fabric (what Louis Garneau calls their "Diamond-Square" knit), when I bought the jersey. The cooling performance and comfort of this jersey came as a pleasant surprise. After 9, yes 9 years in storage (!), I finally tried my jersey for the first time on a long sunny summer's day ride in 2018. Even before leaving the house, I felt just a little bit sharper sporting such a cool and unique design.

About 30 mins into this inaugural ride, I started noticing something weirdly... different. I wasn't warming up to the same degree as what I was used to with all my other jerseys. Several hours in and with the afternoon sun intensifying, I remained feeling cool and comfortable. Eventually, I realized that I wasn't experiencing the hot feeling under the same conditions as what I was used to - and this crazy jersey was the difference! I chalk up this up to the more ventilated Diamond fabric weave, plus the mostly white colour. Of course, the flip side of white fabric is that it exposes even the slightest bit of dirt or pollen stains picked up in the course of normal riding. So if you want to keep it looking sharp like I do, expect some extra spot cleaning work beyond the basically zero effort needed in maintaining coloured pieces.

This jersey's fabric is definitely both lighter in weight and a step improved in airiness when compared to my other basic jerseys. It's slightly see through in the white regions (your heart rate monitor's chest belt will be visible), but not immodestly so. The jersey still offers a UPF of 15, and I don't need to have sunscreen on underneath it. None of this is true for some of today's lightest and most breathable "barely there" fabrics, that undoubtedly are even better still in hot weather.

Louis Garneau Equipe 2008 Beijing Olympics Fabric Detail

For shorter rides, or when there's no blazing summer sun out, or when the temperature isn't as hot, I leave my Equipe jersey at home. While the Equipe still has some cooling and comfort improvement over basic jerseys in less intense conditions, the effect is less noticeable. IMHO, it's much better to save this jersey for the days when you can really feel the difference. As such, I opt for my basic jerseys in milder weather, evening/nighttime rides, and shorter rides. When the mercury drops to 15-16°C, my basic summer jerseys are still fine, but I'll get uncomfortably cold in my Equipe jersey.

The Equipe jersey has a full length zipper. Personally, zipper length is not a consideration I make when buying jerseys, since I never unzip my jerseys when I'm out riding. The nice thing for me instead about a full zip, is that it eliminates the struggle to pull a jersey off over your head, when it's stuck to you in sweat after a ride. With a full zip, getting out is suddenly becomes trivially easy, a nice perk in any summer jersey.

Louis Garneau offers a bewildering array of models and styles that change every year. The Equipe model is still offered, but obviously the colours/graphics, fabric, and fit are different than my 2008 or 2009 version. Also on tap is the Equipe 2, Equipe PS, Equipe GT, Equipe Pro Replica, Equipe Pro Replica 2, and Equipe Premium. Got all that?

While I bought my Equipe jersey primarily for the unique and standout styling, its deft comfort in the summertime sun is its secret weapon and killer benefit. The more advanced fabrics in the pricier jerseys do make a difference in cooling and comfort when riding in warmer conditions. I would never claim that it's an absolute must have, but rather a nice-to-have.

ProGold ProLink Dry Chain Lubricant

WD-40 BIKE Dry Chain Lubricant (rebranding begun in 2020 as "WD-40 Specialist Bike Dry Chain Lube")