It was mainly downhill after that to Coniston Water & I went around the south end first. Unfortunately, I was very disappointed. Coniston Water is the one lake I very much wanted to see because of the Arthur Ransome books I've read about it. But because it is so easily accessible (from most directions) & because it has lots of nice beaches & harbours & because it was a lovely hot Sunday, the shores were lined with people, cars caravans etc & the lake was thick with boats. I felt I should have stayed at Wast Water which is less accessible & when I left this morning, very quiet & calm. Because it was so crowded & the youth hostel was full, I grabbed the first B&B I found, down at the south end of the lake. Then I took just the bike & cycled right up to the north end to the town of Coniston for supper. Tomorrow I'll have to repeat the same route to get up to Grasmere, then if I have time, I hope to make it down to Windemere, cross by ferry and stay in Kendal Y.H. tomorrow evening. I'll be phoning Russell & Hilda from there. I kept my shirt on mostly today but my arms have got very sunburned. I don't want my back to be the same so I'm only taking my shirt off about an hour or so per day.