Carmarthen Peak

July 29, 2013

Katharina, Andy, Claudia, and I decided to do Carmarthen ridge. We left camp in between other groups and made our way up to the glacier. The climb up the toe was even more sketch with loose layered ice, but we made it up without too much problem. We crossed the dry glacier and a chain of rocks all strung out in a line, obviously some rockfall of of North Star being carried away downhill along the surface of the ice. We roped up at the snow line and crossed lightly crevassed glacier to the base of Carmarthen ridge. The weather was looking ominous, so we skipped the first small bit and instead went up a slabby section. A lot of the way was 4th class, so we belayed and short roped the difficult parts as necessary. It was slow going, but finally we reached the low point and started heading towards the summit. This part is more 3rd class so we put the ropes away and quickly made our way upwards. We reached the summit just as another team who had come up an easier route had decided to leave. A bolt of lightning convinced us to vacate quickly and we descended down to a bench where we had lunch. Now the sun was out and we relaxed a bit enjoying the views of the parties coming down off of North Star. We dropped back down to the glacier and roped up again for the crevasse field. Back on the dry glacier we unroped for the last time and since another storm was rolling in, Katharina and I booted it. Andy and Claudia did not seem concerned and made their own time. We reached the toe which was in even worse shape than before. A couple guides were lowering the other gorup, two at a time, in two separate pitches. I planned to rappel this but needed the second rope that Andy carried to make this work. We waited for a while, but the pair did not show up. Finally I went back up the slope and found them hanging out in a sheltered area of rocks. They did not want to go down right now, even though it was now snowing and raining quite hard. I gave them the radio and sped off back down to join the other group on the lower. Several flashes of lightning caused one of the other guides to go back and convince Andy and Claudia to come down. We all were lowered and hiked back to camp. At the final snow slope, the storm had subsided, so several of us spent some time practicing self arrest for a while. A fairly easy day out, but some exciting weather patterns!

Ascending the rotten snow and ice at the toe of the glacier.

Three separate rope teams ascending North Star.

Enjoying the awe inspiring view.

Belaying some of the steeper sections.

Katja demonstrating her au cheval skills along Carmarthen ridge.

Summit in sight.

Lunch at a bench half way down.

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