British Columbia

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Mon May 3 - 0 km - Ottawa to Vancouver via airplane

Flew to Vancouver. Nice smooth flight. Assembled the bikes, which had been shipped out by courier, in the guest house at my uncle's house. Bikes seemed to be alright except for a large chunk of paint missing from mine. This was probably due to my packing skills more than anything. The fork on my Mikado is out of alignment. I am going on the assumption that it was always like that and will be OK. Need to pick up some M5 bolts tomorrow so I can install the front rack. Went to dinner at the White Spot with my grandmother and Wendy.

Tue May 4 - 17 km - Rest Day

Went into Vancouver by bus to get supplies. Got bolts for front rack from a bike shop in Richmond, which was built out of an old church. Finished putting bikes together and went for a ride down by the dyke and along the fishing piers. I am pretty sure the fork was always out of alignment because the wheel is in the same off position in the front rack. Finished the day by surfing the web with my cousin Stephen.

Wed May 5 - 0 km - Rest Day

Took the bus to East Vancouver to visit Central Hobbies, where I bought some model train cars. Wendy and I went to see the IMAX show 'Extreme', which is kind of fitting as we are about to embark on our own extreme adventure. It was my cousin Theresa's birthday, so we had a family dinner party. Played scrabble over a bottle of scotch with my uncle George until 0100h.

Thu May 6 - 47 km - Rest Day

Packed up the gear, then rode solo (without gear) out to the Alexander Frazer bridge to scout it out. Got lost a couple of times, but found the route. It is not very well designed for bikes at all, but I guess it will get us across the river. It was raining and the bridge was pretty slippery as it was a steel surface. Was really exhilarating being 200+ feet in the air riding along the edge of a narrow sidewalk. The drivers here are mich more courteous than back home. Even trucks slowed down and passed safely. Watched a container crane move intermodal containers around in Delta as I came back across the bridge. Went to dinner at Grandma's and met with Bob and Felicia who rode from coast to coast 2 years ago. The are in their sixties and were really inspiring.

Fri May 7 - 130 km - Richmond to Chilliwack

First day! Said goodbye to everyone at 0900h. Bob rode out on his motorcycle to see us off. While we were crossing the bridge, George and Bob passed is on their motorcycles and they waited on the other side to say goodbye again. Lots of mechanical problems. Had to fix Wendy's front derailleur and her cleat came loose on her left shoe. I got a snakebite flat coming down a hill in Abottsford. Saw a huge unit train of CP hoppers while we were putting on rain gear alongside the tracks. Also saw another train being switched later on. Had to take shelter from a thunderstorm at a hwy 1 rest stop for about 20 minutes. One hill was so steep I could barely pedal it. Wendy decided to walk up. Saw an airplane trixter practicing by the Abottsford airport. Finally we arrived at our friends, Val and Tony's, at 2000h. The ride took longer than we were expecting as the Abottsford map was missing about 20 km along the east side. Val made us a pizza and then we went to bed because we were both pooped.

Sat May 8 - 66 km - Chilliwack to Hope

Saw lots of trains today. Got hit by flash rain storms several times, followed by hot sunny periods, making us stop frequently to don rain gear and again to take it off. Hwy 7 was beautiful. Traffic was not too bad and there was a nice paved shoulder. Wendy was really tired so we stopped just before getting onto hwy 3 and found a nice place to camp by a stream. We were unable to find a place to tie the food up so I hung it down a culvert where the stream disappeared into. Hopefully it will be all right. It is raining outside the tent as I write this.

Sun May 9 - 62 km - Hope to Manning Park Resort

Got up at 0500h and ate a breakfast of boiled potatoes and muffins. Steep long hills today. Climbed one mountain right away for 1.5 hours. Got hit with a brief snowstorm while we were coming down so we stopped and put on warm clothing. Had lunch at the bottom of the descent where it was warmer and then climbed Alisson Pass. Took us about 3 hours. The hills are big here! Lots of people were waving and giving friendly honks of encouragement as we climbed. Stopped at the motel in Manning Park Resort. Overpriced, but after today's exhausting ride, the hot bath was worth it!

Mon May 10 - 90 km - Manning Park Resort to Bromley Rock Park

Day started off with a 20 km descent down hwy 3, after which we had to climb about 1200 m to Sunday Summit where we ate a lunch of fruit and bagels. The descent down to Princeton was steep and full of curves and switchbacks which was a little scary as traffic was a little heavier than normal, and everyone had to pass us, no matter what the situation was. Stopped in Princeton for subs at Subway and went to the grocery store to pick up some food. Biked out to the park in the pouring rain, which thankfully stopped just as we arrived. The park sucks. Just a bunch of sites along the edge of the highway for $12 a night. Oh well, hopefully we will be tired enough to sleep through the traffic noise.

Tue May 11 - 110 km - Bromley Rock Park to Summerland

Left around 0800h in sub-zero temperatures. Six km down the road we came across a coffee shop advertising a model train layout. We went in to warm up and had a muffin and coffee while chatting with the woman running the place. The model train was built by her son in-law over many years. Tons of levels, bridges, trestles etc. Took lots of photos. Four trains were running some complex loops and lots of others were parked in various locations. Then we continued onto the Okanagan where we picked up some fresh asparagus and some other fruit. Had lunch in a nice park at the #3/#3a split where we were approached by a woman who was interested in our trip. She said that there was another couple following us along the same route. An old man also came over and asked if he could look at our bikes because he wanted to buy a touring bike and do some tours. He did not like the idea of sleeping out in the cold though. Rode 3a to the end and then 97 to Penticton. 97 was really busy. Found the furniture shop where we were supposed to meet our friends, Pattie and Gord. They were not there but the clerk gave us directions to their house in Summerland so we continued down 97 to their house with an awesome tailwind. Had to climb an incredibly steep cliff to their house which was on top. They let us use their kitchen to cook supper and we decided to stay here tomorrow for a rest.

Wed May 12 - 12 km - Rest Day

Rode into Summerland to buy groceries and run some other errands. Went to lunch at some small cafe and then went bowling with Wendy. While walking in town we saw two other loaded cyclists on 97, however, we could not talk because they were on the other side of the busy road. Went for a walk after dinner and saw a horse. It came over to see us and then suddenly ran away while farting at us. I guess it was not happy that we did not have any food.

Thu May 13 - 81 km - Summerland to Fintry Provincial Park

Started out on 97 with traffic from hell and rode like this for 40 km. Decided to turn off onto West Side Road before hitting Kelowna to get away from it even though it is going to be 15 to 20 km further to Vernon. A motorist from which we asked directions warned us of it being an extremely hilly road. He was right. Ups and downs all over the place, some with grades so steep that they required standing in the lowest gear and grinding up at 5 km/h. Stopped at Bear Creek Provincial Park for a lunch of pizza and pears. At the top of one of the many hills we met a German cyclist who was riding with his girlfriend (apparently) from Banff to Vancouver. He was complaining about how this road goes up and down too much. After chatting for a while we pedalled off and spotted a bald eagle perched up a tree close to the road. Unfortunately it flew off before I could get a picture. While we were stopped the German guy road by and waved. Never did see the girlfriend he was riding with. Continued on along the this curvy road which dropped off a cliff right at the edge of the pavement (no guardrail) until we reached the campground. Had to descend to the lake to get to it and it will be a PITA of a climb to get out of here tomorrow morning.

Fri May 14 - 115 km - Fintry Provincial Park to Gold Panners Campground

Started off with a bang climbing out of Fintry Park for the first few km. Then back onto West Side road for some more ups and downs. Eventually it levelled out into some farmland in a valley where cows and horses grazed on the sides of 100% slopes. Finally we got back on 97. Oh yay :(. Rode 10 km into Vernon where we had lunch at some weird sub place and picked up some groceries, then headed out of town on hwy 6. This was very heavy traffic and a narrow road until we got to the town of Lumby where I guess all the traffic was going. This is supposed to be a Hell's Angels town, but we hardly saw anyone on a motorcycle, let alone a Harley. Hwy 6 then became really nice as it rolled through farms and wilderness. I found a nice place to camp in the woods, but Wendy did not want to stay there. We pushed on to the Gold Panners Campground where Wendy treated me to dinner at the cafe, after which we set up camp and went to bed (ground!). This place has a urinal in the bathroom built out of recycled lawnmower parts!

Sat May 15 - 76 km - Gold Panners Campground to Fauquier

Started day out by riding up through Monashee Pass. We took about 3 hours to reach the summit. Descended a little ways to where it was a bit warmer and had a lunch of cheese and bagels. Continued down the hill at some pretty fast speeds. At one point I went flying by a house where three dogs (big bloodthirsty ones) started chasing. I easily escaped by accelerating down the hill but then worried about Wendy coming up from behind. She somehow managed to slalom through them while they had their attention on me. Shortly after we got hit by a massive rainstorm, so we donned the rain clothes and continued down into raindrops which stung the face and arms. It finally stopped by the time we reached the bottom of the hill. We took off our rain clothes and started up the next hill. Within three minutes it started pouring again so we had to stop, again! As we were changing, a large group of bikers passed us. Maybe these were the people from Lumby. We continued to the Fauquier ferry which we took across the river (it was free) and stopped at a restaurant for a snack and coffee. Who was in the restaurant, but the biker gang that had passed us earlier. The were the CMA, the Christian Motorcycle Association. They were all decked out in leather and tattoos but had t-shirts and patches which said things like 'Make friends with Jesus' and 'We ride for the son'. Biked up the road and found a campground so we rode in. Turns out that the place was closed, but the owners said we could stay anyway, so we did.

Sun May 16 - 109 km - Fauquier to Shelter Bay

It started raining as soon as we left so we put on our rain clothes. Little did we know that we would be leaving them on all day. We spent all morning riding to Nakusp. On top of many of the hydro poles were eagle nests, and in one of them we actually saw an small eagle which flew out and back. We had lunch in Nakusp in a restaurant to dry out a bit. Bought some food in a convenience store because everything was closed, being Sunday. Continued on towards the ferry at Galena Bay. We passed a really neat waterfall, so stopped and took a couple photos. While we were stopped, a couple in a car pulled up. The were decked out in MEC clothing and asked about our trip while inspecting our gear and bicycles. They were cyclists too I guess. While waiting for the ferry, a couple of hippies in a VW van talked to us about the trip. They thought it was pretty cool. The ferry ride was pretty dull as it was pouring rain. Went up to the Shelter Bay campsite, but decided not to bother staying as all it was, was a parking lot with picnic tables and a bear warning sign 'Keep all food in bear proof containers'. Yeah, right. Our panniers sure are not bear proof, and there are no trees in this place to hang anything. We rode a few more km up the road and found some nice woods to camp in with a good place to hang the food. It is still pouring rain as I write this. Hopefully the sun will be shining tomorrow morning.

Mon May 17 - 51 km - Shelter Bay to Revelstoke

Got up to the shining sun (thank goodness), which held all the way. A few clouds loomed and we got hit by a few raindrops, but nothing serious enough to break out the rain gear. Traffic was light to almost nothing except for logging trucks. Full ones coming towards us and empties returning, but they were only every few minutes and most of the drivers gave lots of room. While climbing one hill I looked about 30 m ahead to see a bear foraging at the side of the road. Wow, my first bear sighting! (Hopefully the last this trip) We turned around an then went back down the hill. I guess our squealing brakes caused the bear to notice us, and it mosied on back into the woods. We rode back up the hill singing 'Alice the Camel' at the top of our lungs, and did not see any more bears. Saw lots of tracks along the side of the road though. Got to Revelstoke around 1230h and checked into a cheap motel to dry stuff out. Went to lunch at Dennys and went shopping for supplies. The motel is along the CPR lines here and there is constant freight traffic, which led to many photos. There is also a train museum in town which we checked out.

Tue May 18 - 70 km - Revelstoke to Rogers Pass Summit

Started climbing out of Revelstoke for 20 km and my rear tire blew. The bead had started separating from the casing and the tube blew out of the 1/4" hole. Booted the tire with duct-tape and installed the spare tube, which had been patched from the first puncture. Within 10 feet the tire was flat again. The patch did not hold for some reason. It was an old patch so I guess I will not use those again. Installed the second spare and continued on our way once again. 15 km down the road we were climbing a really steep section. I felt something bumping at the rear with increasing intensity each wheel revolution. It went off like a gunshot. Scared the begezzers out of Wendy and my tire was flat for the third time today. The boot had given out and I now had an inch long tear in my sidewall. The tube was wrecked as there was a huge gash in it. Got out the needle and thread and spent an hour on the side of the Trans-Canada sewing up the gash as huge trucks and RVs sped by. Luckily the rain had slowed to a light drizzle. Finished the job with lots of rubber cement, several layers of duct tape and a prayer to the bike gods. Patched up one of the spare tubes and reinstalled the wheel. Ate lunch of cheese and bread in place since we were stopped anyway. Headed off again in the sunshine. Did not last too long and we were soon putting on the rain clothes again. At one train tunnel we could hear a train inside. I went down with the camera and got a good picture of it coming out. The engineer waved and blew the horn for us! Continued the ascent to the campgrounds. They were closed as there was two feet of snow everywhere. No chance of camping anyway because we are not equipped with snowshoes etc., so we kept going to the summit and got a room in the lodge. $150 for the night. Ouch! We were also not allowed to bring the bikes in. (This was the only place which did not allow it on the entire trip). Hopefully we can drop some altitude tomorrow and find a place to camp before Kicking Horse, because we will soon be out of money at these prices. Finished the evening off by cooking some soup in the coffee maker in our room and going for a swim in the outdoor pool. (Covered)

Wed May 19 - 89 km - Rogers Pass Summit to Golden

Started out by descending Rogers Pass in the light rain (as usual) which cleared later on. We passed through many avalanche tunnels, but traffic was light so we did not have any problems. After 15 km I noticed that all too familiar bumpty-bump feeling from my rear tire. Pulled over quickly and released the pressure before it could explode again. The stitching had started to come out from yesterdays sewing job. Added more duct tape and re-sewed the hole, finishing off with more duct tape, inside and outside the tire. More praying to the bike gods and we were off again, hoping dearly that Golden would have a bike shop. Crossed the time zone boundary so set our watches ahead one hour. We came across a transport truck which was overturned in the ditch. There were railway ties scattered all over the place and the guard rail was smashed up. Police and construction workers guided us around the debris. The cab was completely demolished and I do not think that the driver survived because the ambulance shut off its lights and drove away slowly. At the top of the next hill there was another transport truck with the side smashed in. I guess they collided or something. Stopped for lunch a little further up the road on a grassy area. The rest of the ride was pretty uneventful, except that my tire started to feel worse as we went. Stopped to let out some pressure at one point as it was bulging out a bit at the taped area. Finally made it to Golden. Inquired at the tourist office, and they gave me directions to the bike shop. Bought a new tire, tube and some groceries then headed back onto hwy 1 and climbed a really steep hill to White Tail campground. It turns out the place was closed, but the owners said that we could stay anyway, and if we did not want to use the showers, we could stay for free. We did. A cute dog named Duke hung out with us while we were setting up.

Thu May 20 - 82 km - Golden to Lake Louise, AB

Started the day by climbing, and climbing some more. Then finally we got a descent. Apparently I rode right by a mountain goat on the way down without even noticing. Some of this section of the TCH was very winding and narrow. Fortunately, for the most part, the trucks were going really slow and holding all the rest of the traffic to a reasonable speed as well. At one point we came across road painting operations. This was not pleasant as we had to ride several km with the smell of paint in the air. Finally we caught up to the painters, which was even worse as the traffic was kicking up huge clouds of dust as they drove around on the shoulder. It was quite a relief to get by. Had lunch along the side of the road in Yoho park. Stopped at an Alberta info centre just before the climb up kicking horse pass to find out about places to stay. I was told that there was a crummy RV park where we could camp and there also was a hostel. Began the long climb up the pass. It was not too bad as there were plenty of great views and the grades were not too steep. Stopped at the lookout over the spiral tunnels of the CPR. Unfortunately no train came while we were there, but I got some photos anyway. A tour bus driver warned us of a big grizzly bear running loose around Lake Louise. (Is that now how they are supposed to run around?) He said good luck in a sarcastic manner when we told him we were heading up Kicking Horse, but seemed pretty friendly otherwise. Continued up the pass without too much difficulty. The summit came right before the Alberta border, but unfortunately there was no summit marker. Got a picture and did some high fives when we crossed the border, and then headed downwards towards Lake Louise. Saw a big moose standing on our side of the road. Came to a stop, backed up a little and then took her picture as she looked at us with curiosity. We decided it would be best to pass her on the far side of the road, so we faced traffic for about 100m (there was a 2m shoulder) and pedalled by before crossing back. Reached Lake Louise and checked into the hostel for a couple nights. A little more expensive than I imagined ($100 for 2 people, 2 nights) but certainly cheaper than any of the other tourist hotels around here.
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