Pat Buckley – Ottawa, Ontario – September 1, 2002
The Things We Should Not Forget
Table of Distance Travelled Daily
I rode Tour Atlantic in 2002. It is organized by Cycle Canada. The Tour goes through Canada from Ottawa, Ontario to Halifax, Nova Scotia. Ottawa is Canada's capital city. The tour takes three weeks: July 27 to August 16, 2002.
Most riders feel that this year's Tour Atlantic was a big success.
Tour Atlantic is not for the out of shape. The basic tour averages 118 kilometers per day. I average 141 km1 on travel days. There are 3 rest days on which I ride 156 km.
The route of Tour Atlantic of Cycle Canada is on roads that go:
Down the Ottawa River to Montreal
East to the Richelieu River
North on Richelieu River to St. Lawrence River
Down St. Lawrence River to Mont Joli with a rest day in Quebec City
Across the base of the Gaspe Peninsula to Campbellton, New Brunswick
A rest day in Campbellton
Along the Acadian Shore in New Brunswick, staying on roads close to the shore
Across Fixed Link (or Confederation Bridge) to Prince Edward Island
A rest day in Charlottetown
Charlottetown to Pictou, Nova Scotia via Woods Island Ferry
Pictou to Truro
Truro to Halifax
There are 11 riders and two support crew on the 2002 Tour Atlantic of Cycle Canada. Most participants do not know each other before the Tour. Participants range from teenagers to retirement age. Participants ride alone or with one or two others. Everyone rides every day!
The accommodations on the trip are luxury tent camping. The support crew:
Make and cook breakfast and supper
Buy all food
Drive a pick up truck and trailer that transports participants' camping equipment
Honk when they pass participants on the road
Try to keep the group together and focused
In this section, I tell about the thing that I remember best from each day. I see many of these highlights on side trips from the route of Tour Atlantic. I take many side trips.
There are inserts that summarize my progress on the trip. These are titled "How's The Trip Going, Eh?" 1 2 3 4 T
Meet trip coordinators and other members of Tour Atlantic 2002 who are all quite enthusiastic. Trip coordinators are Carl and Breanna. The cyclists are Brian, Beth, Paul, Jean, Joe, Liz, Rami, Ani, Michelle, Walter, and myself. The riders all look fit and many have toured before. The trip coordinators tell us how everything is supposed to happen. I am optimistic.
We camp at L'Original the first night. I see this man hanging around camp and talking to Walter and Michelle who he knows from before. Later, I meet him when I am reading a historic plaque at the entrance to the campground. He is a town booster. By now darkness is advancing quickly.
My guide drives me to the house of the first resident in 1794, Nathaniel Hazard Treadwell. He and his son, Charles Platt Treadwell, are the early devlopers of L'Original. The house is now owned by an American multimillionaire.
My guide also shows me the "Little Shack" of another, current, prominent mover and shaker in L'Original. The best word to describe the house is palatial.
There was a small rebellion in Oka in the late 1980s. Oka is peaceful now. If I remember correctly, there was confrontation over use of land for a golf course and one police officer was killed.
Today, I see and take a picture of the hill where the confrontation occurred. I explore Oka and its wharf. My visit includes a ride 5 km beyond the town to look at the high school and Monastery. The Monastery is famous for cheese. An exploration of side streets near the Ottawa River in the town of Oka, finds the houses of many wealthy individuals and the trail head of a paved bicycle trail to Montreal. The ferry across the Ottawa River from Oka to Hudson is a barge pulled by a tug.
I soon notice another cyclist slowly overtaking me when I ride onto Ile Montreal from Ile Perrot. We ride together for a while and then get talking. Joanne is a professional iron-man triathlete2 who lives in Montreal and is on a training ride. I am an occasional participant in triathlons. We have a great ride through Montreal. We ride on roads into town and a bicycle path along the Lachine Canal. Joanne stops once with a flat tire. I wait. She says she will show me the way downtown to historic Montreal. She does this, but before that we meet Julie coming the other direction. Julie and Joanne are going to train on the Molson Indy Track on Ile Notre-Dame (Expo 67 site). That is where I am heading.
This whole trip would take me much longer if I were travelling alone as the bike paths are complicated and hard to follow. There are many new bike paths. There is definitely a new one to Ile Notre-Dame.
We go by the bike path to Old Montreal. At this point, I decide to go with Joanne and Julie and try out the Molson Indy Track as it is the site of the Montreal Iron Man3 (triathlon race). The Track is open to bicycle riders and roller bladers when there are no other events in progress. We cycle around the Molson Indy Track a few times, sometimes pushing 35 kph4 and more. It is a wild sensation, putting on speed inside the barbed wire fences, and feeling the tunnel effect. I may try to do Montreal Iron Man now? The track is in excellent condition.
I part from Joanne and Julie after four or five laps of the track. Though I want to stay, I need to get on my way. I must return some day. I eat lunch at the side of the track and see Julie fly by a few times.
The first two and a half days of the trip are on roads going down the Ottawa River in a southeast direction. The trip crosses the Ottawa River from west to east on the morning of the second day and crosses back that evening. The terrain is flat with a few hills. We see some pleasure craft in the River and marinas containing many more.
On the second day many members of Tour Atlantic (including myself) make a special side trip through Oka, Quebec. Oka was the scene of a minor revolution in Canada during the 1980s. The dispute with natives was ostensibly over the expansion of a golf course. In the end, one police officer was killed and the golf course was not expanded. There is no plaque or memorial at this historic site.
During the third day the trip goes through Montreal on bicycle trails. I do not use the trails for much of my trip, but follow the roads that are near them. Most of the trip through Montreal is through well-kept residential areas close to the St. Lawrence River. In the core area of Montreal, the route goes along the Lachine Canal to Ile Notre Dame, the site of Expo 67 during Canada's Centennial Year.
After Montreal the tour goes east to the Richelieu River. The route then turns north along the Richelieu. The ride along the Richelieu River is calm and peaceful. There are small towns and scattered houses between them. We travel along the Richelieu for 20 km on day three, and camp at Mont St. Hilaire.
On the fourth day, the tour continues on roads along the Richelieu River to its mouth, at the St. Lawrence River. Sorel is an industrial city with industrial smells. We take the ferry at Sorel to the north shore of the St. Lawrence River. The tour then goes northeast on roads along the St. Lawrence River toward Quebec City.
Initially, the ride takes an interesting route inland through the towns of Berthierville, St. Valeur, St. Bethelemy, St. Justin, Maskinonge, and Yamachiche. There are many farms. It looks like it is a good year for farming. The crops are doing fine.
The weather through this part of the tour is a bit too hot with maximum daily temperatures above 30 C. There is no rain and it is sunny with a few clouds in the sky. (Note: normal temperatures are 5 degrees cooler than we experience.)
Today's ride along the Richelieu River is from Mont St. Hilaire to Sorel. This is a very peaceful ride. The road has very little traffic and is right beside the River. One can see the River most of the time and appreciate the vegetation on its shores.
I stop and look at the dam and lock at Saint-Ours. The dam was rebuilt in 1967 after the old one was not stopping water. The historic dam and lock were built for early transport of industrial products. At the time, the largest manufacturer of pottery in Canada was in this region. The dam enables travel along the Richelieu River to Chambly. I watch pleasure craft going up and down the lock.
Trois Rivieres was founded in 1634. It all burnt down about 1900, except for a few buildings. I take many pictures. In this city, one notices contrasts between the old and the new since one's line of sight often contains buildings that are three centuries old, one century old, and of recent vintage. A few original buildings are three centuries old. One of these is the Ursuline convent. Those buildings built after the last big fire are only a century old. The Hotel de Ville (i.e., city hall) was constructed in 1967, Canada's Centennial Year. A couple of blocks away, a railroad building is being demolished.
I see the home base of a huge hydroplane of the Coast Guard when I am under the bridge that goes over the St. Lawrence River. The hydroplane is painted orange and has an impressed size.
There are parks in downtown Trois Rivieres. There is a downtown park right beside city hall with lots of trees and benches. There are lots of flowers in the waterfront park.
I talk to another rider as I take a picture of the Hotel de Ville. She is on her way to work. She asks about our trip and tells me about her big ride to Niagara Falls last year and planned ride to some nearby lakes next week with her three girlfriends.
Before leaving Trois Rivieres, I purchase more sun tan lotion with PF15 since my old bottle does not work any more. I throw it out.
After five days of hard riding, today is a day to take it easy on a slow, easy-rider, bicycle ride. I have seen most of the historic sites in Quebec City on previous trips and want to see other parts of the city. I decide to ride near the water along the St. Lawrence and Saint-Charles Rivers.
My ride to the waterfront is partly on a bicycle trail. I visit some parks and see many beautiful flower gardens along the way. At the waterfront, I ride along the docks and take a few pictures of both the docks and the city. Some pictures are of lower-town that is a historic district. Other pictures are of the view looking up at of the upper-town that is located on the cliff beside the Citadel. The Citadel is a historic French fort.
There is a large, oceangoing, passenger ship in port today. There are some ocean tides in Quebec City. One yacht club has a small lock that keeps the water level constant in the yacht club's basin.
After the yacht club, I ride the bicycle trail along the Saint-Charles River and almost get lost when the bicycle trail ends. I eventually find my way back to our lodgings at Laval University by following other local cyclists that look like they know where they are going on the bicycle paths.
These riders are going in the opposite direction. Le Grand Tour is a one week ride that occurs in a different part of the province of Quebec every year. This is the first day of their ride. Their destination today is Montmagny. I stop at a bicycle store in Montmagny and purchase a new bicycle tube. I buy date-flavored "Fig Newtons" at the IGA grocery store, "Ah, real cycle touring has started at last, eh?"
There are 2,000 enthusiastic riders in Le Grand Tour. I wave at all of them and ring my bicycle bell for many. One rider on Tour Atlantic, Michelle, rode Le Grand Tour in previous years.
"The Truck" (of Cycle Canada) passes me in the town of L'Isle Verte at about 1 p.m. when I am eating sandwiches in a picnic area. I could hustle the last 25 km to tonight's camp, but, instead, I go into the interpretive center that is just east of town site of L'Isle Vert.
Baie de L'Isle Verte is a National Wildlife Area. There are 50 broods of Black Ducks in the sanctuary. It is also a migratory area for other ducks. The Wildlife Sanctuary is both before and after the town of L'Isle-Verte for about 8 km in each direction. It includes all land between about 100 meters from the highway and the St. Lawrence River. I want to visit the Wildlife Sanctuary, but do not have time. I must go back some other time. I get out my 10-powered monocle and look around from the highway. I get an idea of the expanse of the sanctuary and see a few ducks in the distance.
There is also an exhibit on peat moss in the interpretive center. Peat moss is now harvested with large vacuum cleaners. I take a picture of the one that is outside the interpretive center. Peat moss used to be harvested near L'Isle-Vert. Peat moss is currently harvested down the road, to the east, at Saint Fabien.
We are still in the St. Lawrence valley going east-north-east as we have been since the middle of Day 5. The terrain of the valley is flat with a few hills, cliffs, and sand banks. The natural vegetation in the valley is mixed deciduous and coniferous forest. Not much forest is left as most of the valley is farmland with a variety of crops and some animals.
This area is one of the first that was settled in Canada. The French settled here in the 1600s. Quebec City was founded in 1608 and Trois Rivieres in 1638. The St. Lawrence valley's north shore was settled with farms in the late 1600s. There are many historic sites and plaques along the route of Tour Atlantic. There are also many small picnic parks along the route that are courtesy of the Quebec government and have drinking water and washrooms.
There are challenging diversions. For example, at Cap Sante I go down half a kilometer on a 14% grade to the local dock, and then ride up without stopping.
After Quebec City, Tour Atlantic follows the south shore of the St. Lawrence River on Days 7 and 8 and half of Day 9. The north shore gradually fades into the horizon. I can barely see the north shore when I write my diary at our camping spot at Trois Pistoles.
An important date in the history of Trois Pistoles is 1666. A plaque, near the main church in town, informs us that in 1666 a priest and settlers hid from Iroquois on Ile Aux Basques, an island in the St. Lawrence River near Trois Pistoles. This historic event is marked every year by the celebration of the Basque Festival in Trois Pistoles.
The route continues along the St. Lawrence River from Trois Pistoles. The route leaves the St. Lawrence and turns south when it starts across the base of the Gaspe Peninsula at Mont Joli. The real hills then begin.
The weather gets better for bicycling as Tour Atlantic moves down the St. Lawrence River since the temperature gets cooler. The first evening with a temperature too cool for just a T-shirt occurs in Trois Pistoles. The days after that are warm, but not hot.
Just after Sayabec at the 145 km mark, I stop at a small park and boat launch. The boat launch is hidden between some trees. I walk over to the boat launch to look at Lac Val Brillant. There is a small meeting of ducks on the paved boat launch. It is a pleasant, warm place to sun oneself in mid-afternoon and scratch and chatter. The ducks are black with blue feathers under their wings (Blue Winged Teal?). Once the ducks figure out that I am OK, they continue to scratch and chatter. Oh what fun, eh?
Stopping to look at the ducks is a great relief after the monster hills that started midday. The ducks are having such fun. The hills start after the route takes a big turn inland from the St. Lawrence River. The big turn is at Mont Joli where Tour Atlantic takes Highway 123 to Amqui rather than to Matane and Gaspe. I went the other way, around Gaspe, on a previous trip. I recommend that trip.
Today's ride follows the Matapedia River and most of the ride is downhill. The valley is beautiful with rock faces, trees, people fly fishing, and crystal clear, running water. After yesterday's ride up, it is good to be going down, and have the wind at our back. Otherwise, the weather is sunny with some clouds and warm, but not hot. It is a truly wonderful day to be cycling.
There are many people fishing today. The Matapedia River is a world class site for fly fishing. Two cyclists of Tour Atlantic will hire a guide and go fly fishing on our day off tomorrow. They will catch (and release) three small fish and listen to their guide's fish stories about the big one.
Later today, I take a picture of a statue of a big salmon fish. The statue is in a fountain in a park on Salmon Boulevard that runs along the shore in Campbellton.
In the morning, I ride into Campbellton. In the afternoon I return to the park and climb Sugarloaf Mountain. There are a flag pole, a viewing tower, and a strong wind at the top. The climb is truly worth it. There is a great view of valley and bay. I take a few pictures from top of Sugarloaf Mountain. Some pictures may be bland or blurred since holding the camera is difficult in such a strong wind. There is one big rock to hide behind, but that does limit one's line of sight.
My time up and down Sugarloaf Mount is about 40 minutes. My total hike is two hours. The path to the trail for ascending Sugarloaf Mountain is the Terry Fox Trail that runs around the Mountain. The Terry Fox Trail is a chip stone path that is about the width of one car. It would be good for cross-country-ski and running races. I pass a few other runners and walkers on the Terry Fox Trail. They are all going in the opposite direction.
The trail up Sugarloaf Mountain is more difficult. It has loose stones and rocks and large boulders in places. One's ascent is aided by many waist-level railings and wires. One short section has an aluminum ladder.
I pass another Tour Atlantic cyclist, Brian, going up Sugarloaf Mountain when I am coming down.
At Belle Dune there is a large lead smelter that pumps smoke into the air. The smoke rivals that from the gas or oil powered electricity plant that is on the next lot. There are other large plants at Belle Dune. I can only see some of these since some have buffer zones around them that are filled with large trees. At one point the main road veers away from the ocean and goes through an area with treed buffer zones on each side of the road. Luckily there are paved shoulders since there are lots of huge trucks using this road. These large plants and their associated pollution all bring us back to the reality of modern life.
I notice the contrast between life at Belle Dune and the rest of today's ride. The rest of today's ride has very few cars on today's route along highway 134. It is a very scenic and pretty ride much of the way. There are views of the ocean, lots of green trees and farmland, small towns, and other pastoral scenery.
Cyclists on Tour Atlantic see Chaleur Bay most of the time, on the left-hand side, when riding the northern shore of the Acadian Peninsula, between Bathurst and Grande Anse. The view is quite scenic. One gets that feeling of "I can see forever." There are beaches at the head of Chaleur Bay, near Bathurst, and sand cliffs close to Grande Anse.
The ride along Chaleur Bay contrasts with one's view on the south shore of the Acadian Peninsula, near Tracadie and Neguac, where the road is inland and one just sees lots of trees.
I see more beaches and salt water flats when I leave the Cycle Canada route and go through Saint Simon and Inkerman when on the east side of the Acadian Peninsula. I am told that the views, Acadian atmosphere, and saltwater feeling, get even better if one goes to Shippagan and the tip of the Acadian Peninsula. I do not have time for that on this trip.
The road to Inkerman and Saint Simon has almost no cars. This road leads me through Évangéliné, a quaint spot that is not contaminated by tourists. It is not on the New Brunswick map. It has about 10 houses, five on each side or road.
Our camp spot at Val Comeau has great views of the ocean. Val Comeau has sand beaches, and large saltwater flats and marshes. Members of Tour Atlantic watch fishing boats come into the harbor as the sun goes down. We can smell the salt in the air. The fishermen wave at us. We wave back.
On days 12 through 15, Tour Atlantic goes along the Acadian shore in New Brunswick. There are many views of the ocean. At times, the cyclists can smell the ocean's salt in the air.
Small side trips give me a feel for the area. At West Point, I find three houses and a small harbor containing three fishing boats.
There are commercial fishing boats of varying sizes in the harbors. Some have quite elaborate and expensive gear for handling nets, sonar for navigation, and large, orange inflatable rafts for safety.
The terrain is flat and rolling. At times, the route is on a cliff a hundred meters above the ocean.
The weather is wonderful when Tour Atlantic is on the Acadian shore of New Brunswick. We are lucky. The only substantial rain occurs in the morning of the rest day in Campbellton. The other days have great weather for cycling: sunny with scattered clouds, temperatures of 20 to 25 C, occasional cool onshore sea breezes,and winds that are at our backs most of the time.
The local residents agree on the weather. They are all out enjoying it. The beaches are packed.
The cyclists arrive at camp and find a tub filled with salt water and live lobsters. They enjoy eating lobster after this long day's ride. The ride had its ups and downs. It was wonderful at times. At other times it was frustrating due to the poor to horrible road surface, repetitious views of trees and bog, and experiences of bankrupt villages whose grants have run out. Besides all this, the route is at least 10 km longer than professed by the route map so we are half an hour late. Brian's company, perseverance, and cheerfulness helped me through most of the bad parts.
Lobster supper is a wonderful idea after this, the longest ride so far for those riders who took the alternative long route of Cycle Canada. The lobsters are cooked for 18 minutes. Supper is lobster, potato salad, lettuce salad, buns, and rice. Everyone (except vegetarians) digs into the lobster (two per person). Joe eats three lobsters. Beth and Paul split a 3rd lobster. One lobster is left over for Carl to consume for lunch a couple of days later. Overall, the lobster supper is a great success.
Shediac area is a day tourist visit area for much of Southeastern New Brunswick. I find lots of traffic near Shediac. After all, it is Sunday and a warm summer day so everyone is out enjoying it. Many are headed to Parlee Beech.
After Shediac, I follow them to Parlee Beach. It is packed with people swimming and sun bathing. I cannot see the sand on the beach due to the number of people.
The park is well organized for an overused area. There are lots of security staff and designated wooden pathways for crossing sand dunes. These will help preserve the dunes since walking all over them would quickly ruin the grasses that hold them together.
An bridge official in a van picks me up as I approach Confederation Bridge – the Fixed Link to Prince Edward Island. I travel across the Bridge in the van – bicycling is prohibited. There are three of us – the bridge official, a farm worker on his daily commute to work, and myself. I depart from the van at tourist information. After a brief stop, I continue on Tour Atlantic. The route follows Prince Edward Island's Blue Heron Scenic Route towards Charlottetown. I look back at the bridge after riding a couple of kilometers and take a few pictures.
The scenery on the Blue Heron Scenic Drive is coastal. I see the ocean across fields, and behind houses, as the highway is set back from the coast. There are many fields of potatoes and some of grains. I stop at Victoria Provincial park and take pictures of the red sand beaches, salt marshes, hills, and farmland.
Along the Blue Heron Route, I am passed by lots of bicycle riders going the other way. Many are on "Tour de L'Isle" which is a French Canadian (Quebec) tour. I talk to two riders on mountain bicycles who are on this tour. They say the Tour is one week long and averages 60 km per day – about half the daily distance of Tour Atlantic. They comment that riders need to be in shape for our Tour Atlantic. I do not think they were in good enough shape for Tour de L'Isle and regretted it. I told them about Tour Atlantic. Maybe it is something for them to aim for in an other year? It is something to get in shape to do?
The Fort Amherst National Historic Site is along the Blue Heron Scenic Route. I stop and eat sandwiches and walk around the Historic Site. There are ruins of two old forts: the French Fort of 1720 and British fort of 1758. All that remains today are grassy bumps on the side of a hill from which I can see Charlottetown.
Today is rest day, but I decide to ride to Brackley Beach in Prince Edward Island National Park. After Brackley Beach, I ride to Robinsons Island on a causeway. I stop and take pictures when returning from Robinsons Island. A van stops near by, and a man puts up a sign "Park Activity" that points to almost where I am standing. Am I the park activity?
I get talking to the park interpreter about some birds in Rustico Bay. He knows a bit, but admits that he took history at University and this is his first year doing interpretive walks. I decide to stay for his nature walk. About 15 adults and children show up for this interpretive event. We do not go far – just onto a sand bar that juts into Rustico Bay.
The park interpreter talks about the flora, fauna, and history of the area. The causeway to Robinsons Island was constructed at a time when the main purpose of the National Park was recreation. In that era, they even tried to join the east and west parts of the park with a bridge, but there were problems since the bridge supports were always washed away by the tides.
The park interpreter points out shells: muscles, clams, worms, etc. He talks about how grass is holding the sand in the sand dunes. We learn that Prince Edward Island sand is red since it is filled with iron bits that have rusted.
The park interpreter tells us that the dominance of White Pine trees in the forests is not natural. The dominance is due to the habit of White Pine of growing so close to each other that they prevent the growth of other species of trees. The original forest was Red Maple and Cedar mix with Maple dominant. The current monoculture of White Pine is not good. National Park policy is to diversity the forest by planting trees of the original forest mix in some areas.
The park interpreter also speaks about the history of the Acadian Expulsion. He relates the Expulsion to a church across Rustico Bay. The church was built by Acadians who were expelled from around Charlottetown in 1755 and moved here over the next few years.
In downtown Pictou, there is a rebuilt ship, the Hector. The reconstructed Hector was launched in 1990. The first Scottish immigrants to Nova Scotia came to Pictou on the original Hector in 1773. The successful immigration from Scotland on the Hector led to further immigration from Scotland to Nova Scotia for decades after that.
Today is the first day of this year's Hector Festival. It is a celebration of the first arrival of Scottish Immigrants in 1773. I listen to one singer and two fiddle players at a free afternoon concert at the Hector Festival. They are all very good performers.
Tour Atlantic is rapidly approaching its final destination of Halifax. The Tour goes to Prince Edward Island on the Confederation Bridge (commonly called "The Fixed Link") after doing the Acadian shore of New Brunswick. There is a rest day in Charlottetown, Prince Edward Island. The next day, the Tour takes the ferry from Woods Island, Prince Edward Island to Caribou, Nova Scotia. All riders make it to the noon ferry.
The tour goes by much prosperous farmland on Prince Edward Island. The soil is fine grained and orange in color. The orange color is due to rusted iron in the soil.
Most harbors in Prince Edward Island, as in New Brunswick, contain commercial fishing boats and pleasure craft.
Many Tour Atlantic participants go to Prince Edward Island National Park on the rest day in Charlottetown. I ride to the Park. The others take the bus to Cavendish. The side trip is worth it. The beaches and sand dunes are beautiful.
The land that Tour Atlantic passes through in Nova Scotia on Days 18 and 19, is not as rich as that in Prince Edward Island. Most of the land is covered with forests. There is evidence of forestry industry and its practices of clear cutting.
I first got the "Down East" feeling on a road, somewhere in New Brunswick or Prince Edward Island. I cannot remember exactly where. I pass a small farm and a man is working in the farmyard clearing out a manure spreader. He looks like he needs "the wave" so I wave; he smiles and waves back.
I got another whiff of the "Down East" attitude when talking to a fisherman a few days ago, at our campground near Kouchibouguac National Park. He tells us about the number of weeks he actually works when we question him, but does not like to be too specific. He calls work weeks "fishing weeks." He seems to be doing OK and is definitely enjoying life. He is not working right now, but he is probably collecting Employment Insurance (used to be called Unemployment Insurance or "pogey").
In Truro, I learn more about the "Down East" pace of life. I discuss it with a salesman in a camera store after I buy a roll of slide film. He likes the slower pace of life that he finds here as compared to the life that he experienced when he lived in Ottawa and Toronto. As he says, "You live longer here."
I get more of the Down East way when I talk to a couple in the picnic area of the Tidal Bore Interpretation Center at the end of Tidal Bore Road just west of Truro. They are two buskers on their way to Charlottetown for its down-home parade and homecoming celebration this weekend. They are taking the ferry since they do not like the Confederation Bridge. They basically don't approve of the Bridge. They live near Truro and work at a cooperative entertainment center.
Later, on the bridge of the Schubenacadie River, I am taking some pictures. I talk to a man who moved here about 20 years ago. He likes the photographic opportunities and slower pace of life than the place he refers to as Upper Canada5. He says reluctantly: "I should come back later to get better pictures?" Will he? The tidal bore does come in at 6:35 PM. It is now 2 PM.
I do not follow either of Cycle Canada's recommended routes to Halifax from Schubenacadie. Instead, I go directly to the Atlantic Ocean through the Musquodoboit Valley. I leave the campground in Schubenacadie, turn left toward Halifax, turn left at the next road (Highway 224), and do not even go into the town site of Schubenacadie. I do go through Elderbank and Musquodoboit Harbor before following Highway 7 along the shore of the Atlantic Ocean. My route's next turn is along Highway 208 toward Seaforth and Lawrencetown.
Near Lawrencetown I see a sign for Lawrencetown beach and go there. I walk on a wooden walkway over sand dunes, find six people trying to surf board, lots of rules about surfing, and an area with lifeguards for surfers. The water temperature is 16 C, air is 20 C, and there is light fog. There is enough fog that I am cool when cycling in a T-shirt. I almost need to put on a jacket. The surfers are wearing wet suits.
Unfortunately, I see only one surfer get UP in the half hour that I am at this beach.6 There just is not enough wind today for surfing. There is almost enough wind. The fan needs to go up about another five kph. I take a few pictures of surfers and dunes, eat some lunch, and fill my water bottles.
In three words: Wonderful, challenging, exciting! I would do it again.
The last few days are through Nova Scotia. Much of the Tour in Nova Scotia is along tree-lined roads as forestry is a major industry. There is some farming in the lower parts of the valleys.
The terrain in Nova Scotia is hilly. The weather is wonderful with warm temperatures, no rain, lots of sun, and a few clouds.
I take my own alternative route on the last day so that I will see the Atlantic Ocean. I go directly from Schubenacadie to the Atlantic Ocean shore through the Musquodoboit Valley. From where I stand on the beach the next land is Europe when I point east in the right direction.
The trip ends with a stay at Dalhousie University in Halifax and a celebration at the Lower Deck Good Time Pub. All riders of Tour Atlantic get a certificate for completion of the Tour. Many of us are entertained by the busker festival on Halifax's waterfront.
In the morning I jog through Point Pleasant Park in Halifax. There are many runners and dogs. The sign says that dogs are banned after 10 a.m. The dogs are well behaved and do not bother the runners.
I take the train to Montreal at noon plus 45 minutes.
Some events on Tour Atlantic were so bad that some riders almost quit the tour and flew home. "Who set this route?" "Who found this crap?" "Why are we doing this?"
Cycle Canada's information package informs all riders that there is oatmeal available for breakfast every day. Cooking the oatmeal is Carl's task. Participants know when it is done. They hear him call: "Oatmeal's ready!" "More Oatmeal?"
Some riders are such faithful patrons that they make it to "Carl's Honorary Oatmeal Roll." He read the roll at the last breakfast. By that time, it is too late to join and too late to be removed. Those on the roll: Pat, Brian, Joe, Ani, Walter, and Beth. Oh my! The things that we eat when we are starving?
How do we eat so much oatmeal? Some campers eat it with milk, sugar, yogurt, or all three. On the first few days I eat plain oatmeal. I notice other campers eating fruit loops. I scatter a few fruit loops on top of the oatmeal. It looks better. It tastes better. What an idea – fruit looped oatmeal?
Ah, what this trip taught me? I used to eat spoon-sized shredded wheat for breakfast when at home. Now, I have shredded wheat with a few fruit loops scattered on top of it. Oh, something to look forward to every day?
The Tour Atlantic riders sit down for supper at Riviere Ouelle (on Day 7). They are seated at two picnic tables in their normal fashion. Everyone is digging into the food. A wild man suddenly jumps out of the bushes and growls. He has dark frizzy hair, a wild look in his eyes, mud on his dark skin, and carries a huge knife. I hear screams. The wild man runs off down a trail before we can catch him. Is it safe to stay here? Do we need to call the police?
One tourer mentions that they read in the washroom that it is Halloween at this campground today. We assume the wild man is related to these Halloween celebrations and that it is safe to stay here this evening, but are we correct?
The route after Trois Pistoles (on Day 9) is flat and pleasant and it is sunny and looks like another great day for riding. Another great day going down the St. Lawrence River! My spirits are up, until the route goes down a side road. At this point, life seems wonderful. There are no cars on this road, the sun is starting to shine through the morning haze, and the temperature is just right for cycling.
My elated feelings are soon broken. I can see a big, steep hill. Up the hill I sprint. At the top, I see a flat stretch and then another steep hill going up. OK, so there are two of them. One is plenty. At the top of the second hill I see a road that goes all the way down and then all the way back up.
I turn around and see some riders stopping for a short break and smiling. These hills are just another Cycle Canada challenge?
Another obstacle shows up a couple kilometers after the three big hills. The Main Street in St. Mathieu is under construction. The street is a big hole. There are currently putting in sewers and water mains.
There is no real detour since Main Street is under construction and everyone lives on Main Street in St. Mathieu. There are detour signs for going back the way we came, but we already did that road. A little construction never defeats a true cyclist. I start walking along the right side of the main street hole. A hundred meters further on, I am still walking and can see that the big hole goes on and on for at least another kilometer. The walkway has disappeared from the right side of the hole. I stand there looking perplexed.
A foreman comes up to me and says something in French. I do not understand. We stand there momentarily in our dilemma of the two solitudes. Suddenly, he turns, points across the street at a house and says, "Derriere home." I get the message, go across the Main Street hole, and walk through the back yard of the house that he pointed at and those of a few other houses. I get to see everyone's laundry up close. The town is well kept. These people are not in poverty and are proud of their town.
Fifteen minutes later, I am through construction and then ride on a paved back road for 40 km. It IS pleasant, and a great reward after the three big hills and the construction.
The longest required day of Tour Atlantic is the 170 km route from Trois Pistoles to Amqui (on Day 9). There are no options. All riders know that this ride is coming. They expect it to be long and flat until they turn right, and head south, at Mont Joli, about midday. Their perspectives change when they take this turn and point their front wheels toward Amqui. They soon learn what a big hill really is.
The worst hill is one that I ride with Brian and Liz. It is long and steep and the pavement is stripped for pavement recycling. You only know the feeling if you have ridden through this stuff. Someone invented it a few years back as a cost saving measure when re-paving roads. There are these big road machines that eat up the old pavement. These machines also create a merciless riding surface that is like a waffle and makes the handle bar shake continually. For some reason our construction friends have stripped this 3 kilometer hill and have not gotten around to paving it yet.
Remember, these construction people are our friends. A road normally has smooth pavement that is fun to ride by the time that they are finished with it and leave.
There is major road construction in Causapscal (on Day 10). I ignore the construction signs pointing to a big detour outside town and proceed into town. I try to follow the side walk, but that is not possible so I end up following detour signs in town. This detour has a rough surface of sand and stone chips.
Observant cyclists notice the rules that are actually practiced on the road. They are perplexed in Campbellton (on Day 11). The locals drive like cyclists ride. The drivers come up to a stop sign, slow down, but do not stop, and keep driving unless there is a specific reason to stop. They even do this when they turn the corner. They do not stop unless there is a bloody obvious reason to do so.
This behavior of the drivers makes crossing streets at street corners to be a dangerous option. How does one cross the street in downtown Campbellton without getting injured? The answer is that one stops at the edge of the road, in the middle of the block, looking like one wants to cross the road. When one does this, the cars stop, right there, and let one cross the street. Amazingly polite, eh?
The Cycle Canada map has alternative long routes on some days. One of these is from Val Comeau to Kouchibouguac (on Day 14). The map says that the route is 176 km. Most of the riders on Tour Atlantic think this is getting to the outer limit of how far they want to ride in one day. Six of the eleven decide to take the alternative route since the trip guide promises more scenery and better riding. The six: Pat, Brian, Walter, Michelle, Ani and Rami .
The first 10 kilometers of this route live up to its billing: The route is scenic, the road is relatively-new, smooth pavement, and there are very few cars as riders go along Water Street out of Miramichi-Chatham, New Brunswick. Everyone's feelings are up at this point. The cyclists do see some trees along the road ahead, but expect that these will last for just a few kilometers and then they will see the ocean again.
From this point on, those on the long route gradually get more disappointed, more downhearted, more overheated, more tired, and more enraged at the trip organizers. There are very few scenic views for the next 65 km. The road conditions deteriorate to ruts and pot holes, and get even worse when they are welcomed to Kent County. That is what the sign says!
Everyone gets overheated as temperatures are at least 30 C. Those riders who meticulously follow Cycle Canada's route directions start to realize that today's route is growing. It is longer than promised. All points in the trip guide come up 10 or 15 kilometers later than expected. I hear comments:
"How much longer is this route?"
"I am hot. Where is a store? I want some pop."
"What a crappie forest. Where is the scenery that we were promised?"
Added to all this is a perception of a deteriorating local economy. One small town of 30 houses has two bankrupt gas stations and a bankrupt grocery store.
I rode most of this route with Brian. We are survivors!
The maps provided by Cycle Canada contain a few minor errors and a major one at Cocagne (on Day 15). At Cocagne, one's intuition suggests turning onto a bridge over a bay, but the Cycle Canada instructions only note Cocagne and do not say to turn. Most riders do not turn. Instead, they ride 10 km down a side road before deciding to turn around, ride back, and take the turn over the old wooden bridge. As a result, they arrive an hour later than planned at their destination of Murray River because they ride 20 km more than the planned Cycle Canada route.
However, Most riders still arrive at Murray River Provincial Park with plenty of time to experience swimming in the salt water of Northumberland Strait (i.e., the ocean). The water temperature is warm – I estimate it to be 19 or 20 C. After that all campers enjoy Perogies for supper. Later in the evening, we watch the sunset from our gassy sites on the side of a hill overlooking Northumberland Strait. We almost forget the bad directions from earlier in the day.
Tour Atlantic is on Prince Edward Island on Days 16, 17, and 18. Prince Edward Island is a beautiful place, but bicyclists must be wary of the mud and dirt. The red soil of Prince Edward Island is such a fine grind. It is much finer than the sand found at the edge of the road in most places. Bicyclists need to stay out of it. I am careful and do not go through this mud. This mud can do a devastating job to an oiled bicycle chain. The mud has a way of getting into all the other bearings on a bicycle.
When in Prince Edward Island, I need to divert from my normal habits of wandering around picnic areas and sites of interest. It is difficult. This is a vacation. I do not like having endless restrictions on where I can go with my bicycle, but I need to stay on the pavement. Somehow, I do.
Even the local residents change their lifestyles to accommodate the dirt. The dirt becomes dust when it is barely disturbed. I see one farmer driving at less than 5 kph out his driveway so he does not create any dust. In another place, there are signs on a cottage road telling drivers to go very slowly as "This is a dust free zone."
We experience potholes that have not been filled for decades, on one road in Nova Scotia (on Day 19). The road is about half way between Pictou and Truro. The sign says "Very Rough Road For Next 7 km." At least the sign IS true. A speed limit sign is not needed. The potholes shake the truck so much that one camper's plastic plate is broken.
I visit a dock on a side street in Shediac and eat some lunch. One building on the dock is a nature interpretation center for wildlife on Shediac Island. There is a collection of stuffed ducks that are found in Shediac area.
Another exhibit draws attention to extra large waves that occurred on New Brunswick's east coast in recent years, particularly in the winter of 2000. The waves damaged dunes, brought winter ice up to edges of houses, and damaged some houses.
When I look at this exhibit, I recall seeing this storm damage when I was in Val Comeau a couple of days ago. I rode around Val Comeau and observed the competing campground. Close to it, I saw the storm damage that is highlighted in this exhibit in Shediac. At Val Comeau, there are damaged sand dunes and beaches. I remember one gap of 100 meters in the sand dune that is closest to the shore. It looks like some local delinquents went wild with an earth mover. However, this damage was done by the storm. There is also a damaged board walk. Large sections of it are missing.
All cities and towns and many villages contain war memorials. Most are for the wars of the last century: World Wars 1 and 2, Boer War, Korea, Vietnam, and the Gulf.
I see other memorials that honor those who died in the founding of Canada. I remember one in particular on Middle Island, near Miramichi, New Brunswick. The Island is now a city park. The Island was a quarantine for Scottish immigrants who were suffering from syphilis in 1847. Half of them died. A young doctor from Chatham volunteered to take care of the immigrants. He caught syphilis and died. There is one memorial to the Irish immigrants and another memorial for the doctor.
Tour Atlantic's route to Belle Dune is on a road, along the shore, from the north. Just before Belle Dune, the road suddenly turns inland a couple of kilometers and the route follows a road that has 3 meter high wire-mesh fences on either side. Behind the wire fences is a forest. After Belle Dune, the road again goes along the shore.
Why did we have to ride this big detour from the shore at Belle Dune? What is happening behind the buffer of trees that are behind the wire fences on the road around Belle Dune? What are we not supposed to see?
At Belle Dune, I observe a lead smelter and a gas (or oil) fired electric power plant. There is more industry. I can smell it.
Participants in 2002 Tour Atlantic can regularly read their email and browse the Internet. Down east is part of the wired world. There is access to the internet at most town libraries, not just at universities.
|
Days of Tour Atlantic |
My Distance |
Distance on Cycle Canada's Route Map |
|---|---|---|
|
1. Ottawa to L'Original (Hawkesbury) |
149 |
116 |
|
2. L'Original to Hudson |
124 |
60 |
|
3. Hudson to Mont St. Hilaire (through Montreal) |
147 |
111 |
|
4. Mont St. Hilaire to Pointe Du Lac |
155 |
130 |
|
5. Pointe Du Lac to Quebec City |
166 |
152 |
|
6. Quebec City (rest day) |
46 |
|
|
7. Quebec City to Riviere Ouelle |
155 |
141 |
|
8. Riviere Ouelle to Trois Pistoles |
129 |
117 |
|
9. Trois Pistoles to Amqui |
170 |
170 |
|
10. Amqui to Sugarloaf Mountain Park (Campbellton) |
115 |
107 |
|
11. Campbellton (rest day) |
30 |
|
|
12. Campbellton to Petit Rocher |
105 |
98 |
|
13. Petit Rocher to Val Comeau |
161 |
141 |
|
14. Val Comeau to Saint Louis de Kent (Kouchibouguac) |
190 |
176 |
|
15. Kouchibouguac to Murray Beach |
150 |
136 |
|
16. Murray Beach to Charlottetown |
138 |
88 |
|
17. Charlottetown (rest day) |
80 |
|
|
18. Charlottetown to Lyons River (Pictou, NS) |
80 |
73 |
|
19. Lyons River to Schubenacadie |
120 |
108 |
|
20. Schubenacadie to Halifax |
150 |
132 |
|
Day |
Route |
Highlight of Each Day |
|
0 |
Sense a wonderful trip when meet coordinators and other cyclists |
|
|
1 |
Talk to a town-booster of L'Original |
|
|
2 |
Visit Oka, Quebec |
|
|
3 |
Ride through Montreal with Joanne and Julie |
|
|
4 |
Ride along the Richelieu River |
|
|
5 |
Slow down and visit Trois Rivieres |
|
|
6 |
See the Waterfront of Quebec City |
|
|
7 |
Meet riders from "Le Grand Tour" of Quebec |
|
|
8 |
Visit interpretation center of National Wildlife Sanctuary of La Baie D'Ile de Verte |
|
|
9 |
Entertained by ducks at Sayabec |
|
|
10 |
Cruise down the Matapedia River valley |
|
|
11 |
See a great view from the top of Sugarloaf Mountain |
|
|
12 |
See lead smelter at Belle Dune |
|
|
13 |
Great views of the ocean |
|
|
14 |
Val Comeau To Saint Louis de Kent (Kouchibouguac National Park) |
Eat lobster supper |
|
15 |
Find many swimmers at Parlee Beech |
|
|
16 |
Ride the Blue Heron Scenic Drive in Prince Edward Island |
|
|
17 |
Listen to a park interpreter on Rustico Bay in Prince Edward Island National Park |
|
|
18 |
Appreciate history in Pictou |
|
|
19 |
Experience the "Down East" attitude |
|
|
20 |
Watch surfers in Atlantic Ocean |
|
4. Construction In St Mathieu - The First Little Town After Trois Pistoles |
|
|
5. Longest Ride of Tour Atlantic – From Trois Pistoles to Amqui |
|
1Km = kilometer or kilometers.
2A triathlete is a person who competes in triathlons. A triathlon consists of the 3 successive events of swimming, bicycling, and running that are completed without stopping. A few triathletes are professionals who make money from sponsorships and by winning triathlons.
3An Iron Man triathlon consists of successively swimming 4 km, bicycling 180 km, and running 42.1 km (i.e., a marathon) without stopping.
4Kph = kilometers per hour.
5Upper Canada is a term used by individuals in the Maritime Provinces to refer to central Canada; the term has a historical basis in pre-confederation when the area that is now southern Ontario was called Upper Canada.
6Some Tour Atlantic cyclists (Jean and Liz) stayed near Halifax for a few days after the Tour. They saw lots of surfers get up at Lawrencetown beach.