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TANK SELECTIONThe hobby of tropical fish keeping can be a very rewarding experience, but it does take time, money and effort if you wish to be successful. Before you begin, read as much as you can. The better prepared you are, the better your aquarium will look, and the healthier your fish will be.
The first step is to decide where you are going to place your new tank, and how big you would like it to be. Decide this, before buying it, and definately before filling it with water. Each gallon of water weighs 10 pounds, so once filled, it is next to impossible to move, without placing stress on the glass, and on yourself.
Keeping the weight in mind, it needs to be located on strong flooring, especially in the case of the larger tanks. You may also wish to buy a stand for it to sit on. Again, the stand needs to be able to support its weight.
The chosen location must be close to an electrical outlet, as the filter, air pump, lights, and heater must all be plugged in to a wall. It should not be placed in an area of direct sunlight, or in an area where lights are on 24 hours a day. In such a position, the aquarium glass, water, and substrate will quickly be covered in algae. Keeping these points in mind, you can locate a suitable area for it, and then the next rule of thumb is to purchase the biggest size of tank that will fit this area. It is much easier to keep the ecosystem in a larger tank more stable than in a smaller tank, resulting in fewer fish losses. So especially for the beginner hobbyist, the bigger the better!! A tank greater than 30 gallons is ideal.
Finally you must consider the shape that you would like. Aquariums are typically made of glass, or acrylic. The Acryllic tanks are capable of having curved faces, and are lighter in weight, but they are also easier to scratch. So an interesting shape may not necessarily be the best option in the long run. The most important thing to consider when looking at shapes, is the lifestyle of a fish. They need to eliminate CO2 and breath in O2. The most efficient way of doing this, for them, is to have a large surface area in the tank. The greater the amount of water that is in contact with the air, the greater gas exchange there will be, and the healthier your fish will be.
 | This means that shallower, longer and wider, is better than taller and thinner. |
TANK SET-UPOnce you have acquired the largest size of aquarium that is practical for you, you will then need to acquire the accessories, and assemble everything together.
As well as the tank, you will need:
- A glass cover
- An electric heater
- A thermometer
- A net (large, but not too deep)
- A plastic siphon
- A filter (undergravel, corner, or outside)
- Decorative materials (stones, ornaments)
- Plants (keep moist until ready to use)
- Fish food (live or dry)
- A light bulb (10 gallon tank: 50 watts 25-50 gallon tank: 75 watts)
- The gravel (one pound per gallon)
- Water test kits
Wash your hands thoroughly, before proceeding, and rinse completely to remove all traces of soap.
Clean the tank thoroughly, inside and out, using warm water and a rag. Check for any leaks in the tank. (Repair any leaks using a cement intended for fish tanks.)
Apply a background if desired: paint, decal or mirror.
Put the tank in its permanent position.
Avoid putting the tank in a sunny window. Keep the tank away from cold drafts, and place the tank near an electrical outlet.
Place the undergravel filter in the bottom of the tank, following the instructions that come with it.
Wash the gravel to be used, in a bucket of hot water, for 15 to 20 minutes. Do not use gravel that is too coarse, as the plants will float up. Do not use gravel that is too fine as it will trap debris and it will pack too tightly for the plant roots to spread. Spread the gravel over the bottom of the tank, sloping it slightly from the back to the front. This will aid in planting, and allows debris to roll to the front of the tank where it can be easily accessed.
Cover the gravel with a sheet of plastic or an upside down plate to avoid disrupting it as the water is added. Add the water until until the tank is half full. Add the light above the aquarium. Add the heater to the tank. Make sure it is not submerged in the gravel.
Examine the plants. Remove dead leaves. Rinse the plants in clean water. Place the plants in the tank in an appropriate location, spreading the roots under the gravel. Larger plants should be in the corners and at the back of the tank.
Live plants are attractive to look at, plus they are of great benefit to the fish. They help the fish to behave normally. They also give off oxygen, which the fish use, and take in the Carbon Dioxide, which the fish give off. Plus, they help in removing the fish waste, using it as fertilizer. A healthy tank is a well planted tank!
Decorations also benefit the fish, providing them with a place to hide, and with territorial landmarks.
Finish filling the tank with the remaining water, filling to one inch from the top. Plug the heater in and set the thermostat to 75 Degrees Farenheit. Add the cover to the tank. This will keep out dust and dirt, and it will prevent the fish from jumping out. It also reduces evaporation.
Leave the tank undisturbed for 3 to 7 days to let it settle, before acquiring the fish.
ADDING THE FISHBefore placing any fish in the water, it is important to understand the "Nitrogen Cycle", as this is one of the biggest stresses for fish. The waste products from fish are broken down into ammonia. (NH3) Any measurable amount of ammonia though is toxic to fish. Signs of discomfort include rapid breathing, poor appetites, darting about, and gasping at the top.
Once there is measurable ammonia in the water, bacteria establish themselves, which convert the ammonia to nitrite. (NO2) As the ammonia decreases, and the nitrite peaks, the fish are stressed once more. A second type of bacteria then appears, which converts the nitrites to nitrates. (NO3) Nitrates are not toxic, and are used by the plants for fertilizer. At this point, your tank is said to be "fully cycled".
During the most stressful times, partial water changes will help to eliminate some of the toxins, but they rapidly build up, until sufficient bacteria is present to break them down.
Due to this Nitrogen Cycle, and the fact that "new" tanks do not have this bacteria in them right away, it is HIGHLY reccommended to start off with hardy, inexpensive fish at first. Use these fish to produce ammonia, and start the cycle, before adding the species which you are really interested in. Species such as Danios, Tiger Barbs, Rasboras and Tetras are able to withstand the environmental stresses, and should be considered. Do not overfeed these starter fish, as the more food they get, the more waste will be produced, and the more ammonia will be present.
It can take up to 6 weeks to "cycle" a new aquarium, and to get measurable levels of safe nitrates. At this point, you can slowly add other fish, once all the nitrites have been converted.
Again, I repeat...add more SLOWLY. Bacteria GRADUALLY increase their populations as the population of fish increases. It can take up to 6 months to acquire the full number of fish, safely.
Now you must look at the different species of fish, and decide what sort of a combination you are interested in. Differentiate between calm, community species and aggressive, territorial ones. Decide if you want schools of fish, or individuals. Recognize which are rapidly reproducing live-bearers, vs. slower reproducing egg layers. Only combine species that have have similar requirements for water properties and temperature. Only add territorial ones, if there is still some unclaimed space. As a general rule, the more sparsely a tank is populated, the better it functions and the easier it is to take care of, but as a rule of thumb, one inch of fish for every gallon of water is acceptable.
To calculate the number of gallons that your tank holds, multiply the length x width x height, in inches, and divide the result by 231.
At the fish store, choose healthy, active, alert fish, from clean, healthy tanks, and ask about the guarantee. They should be guaranteed for at least 2 days.
Bring the fish home as quickly as possible to minimize any temperature changes to their water. Then add them to your tank in the following manner:
- Float them in the bag at the surface of the tank for 30 minutes.
- Turn off the aquarium lights to decrease stress.
- Observe the fish for any signs of disease.
- After 20 minutes, open the bag, and put half a cup of your own aquarium water into the bag. Reclose it.
- Repeat at 25 minutes.
- After 30 minutes,submerge the bag, and open it, letting the fish swim out.
- Feed lightly for the first two days.
Follow these steps for EVERY new addition to the tank as It takes time for the water temperatures to become equal, minimizing the stress on the new fish. It also gives you chance to "quarantine" the fish if any disease is suspected, before releasing it, minimizing the contamination of your tank.
AUARIUM MAINTENANCEMaintaining clean, clear water in an aquarium is one of the harder aspects of fish care. Water may turn cloudy, due to an increase in bacteria, or it may turn green, due to an excess of algae. Once these conditions start, they can be hard to reverse.
The first important aid in keeping the tank clean, is of course, the use of a filter. Filters can be internal, or external. They can be mechanical or biological. Which ever type you choose, based on the size of your tank, be sure to keep it clean and in proper working condition.
A second important aid in cleaning the tank, are partial water changes. The bigger the tank, the less frequent these can be, but every 2-4 weeks is a guideline. Unplug all electrical equipment, and siphon off a third of the water, making sure to route through the gravel, picking up debris as well as just water.
Now you must replace this water. It is best to keep buckets of standing water to use for this purpose. If the water has stood for 24 hours, it has given it chance for the chlorine to disappear. Chlorine can be toxic to fish. If you do not have space to keep buckets of water, you can purchase drops to add to tap water which will do the same thing, but I prefer to use fewer chemicals.
The temperature of this fresh water must also be brought to within 2 degrees of the aquarium water to minimize stress to the fish. This can be done by adding boiling water to the buckets, until it is the right temperature. before pouring it into the tank.
A third factor which can be used to help keep the tank clean is the use of scavengers. These can be snails, catfish or algae eaters. Snails can quickly overtake a tank though, plus some fish will kill them. Catfish such as Corydoras are an excellent choice. They are constantly rummaging through the substrate ingesting excess food and debris. An algae eater such as a Plecostomus is also an excellent choice. They will clean the glass surfaces and plant leaves, but they can get very big...up to 12 inches long...so you must have a large enough tank for them to be comfortable as they grow.
A forth aspect in maintaining a clean aquarium is to not overfeed the fish. They only need to be fed once a day, and no more than what they will consume in 3 minutes. Excess food will drift to the bottom, increase the bacteria count, and cloud the water. Also, well fed fish can become fat and lazy, just like any other pet can. So minimizing their food intake will keep them more active.
To prevent the excess growth of algae, do not leave the aquarium light on 24 hours a day. 12 hours is more than enough. In theory, the fish do not need the artificial light at all...but the live plants will.
The use of an algae scraper is reccommended to keep the glass clean. The presence of such fish as kissing guoramis, and swordtails will also help to minimize algae.
Finally, when cleaning anything in the tank, remember once again...DO NOT USE SOAP!!
PREVENTING DISEASEDiseases can either be due to NON-INFECTIOUS or INFECTIOUS causes. The Non-Infectious diseases are much easier to control, treat, recognize and prevent.
These diseases are related to such things as the water temperature, the pH, toxins, oxygen and carbon dioxide concentrations. Ideally, test kits should be used, monthly, especially for 1)Ammonia: Any measurable amount is toxic. 2)pH: Most species prefer a pH of 6.8 - 7.2 (neutral). Too many fish result in too much ammonia which leads to a lowering of the pH. 3)Nitrite: Toxic 4)Nitrate: Safe. Can lower it via regular water changes. But as long as the tank is stable, there is no reason to go overboard with tests.
The best method of disease control is PREVENTION. Check the tank regularly, looking for the following things:
- Are the fish healthy? (Active, eating, fins erect, bright colors)
- Is the water the right temperature? (Most species can withstand 65 - 90 F but 72-75 F is ideal)
- Is the heater working?
- Is the tank large enough for the fish? (1" of fish per gallon of water)
- Is there adequate lighting?
- Is it free from pollutants? (Ammonia, soap, chlorine, cigarette smoke)
- Do the fish have shelter from each other?
- Are the plants healthy and show no signs of decay?
- Is the gravel clean?
- Is there a healthy smell?
- Is there anything lurking in the corners? (Dead fish, parasites)
Infectious diseases have more specific symptoms, but are harder to treat. They can be divided into 1)Protozoan 2)Bacterial 3)Viral and 4)Parasitic.
When putting any medication into a tank, be careful as some may kill plants, others may stain equipment, and change the color of the water. Be sure to unplug the filter when medicating a tank, as the charcoal will remove the chemical, and your medication will be useless. It is often easier to isolate the sick fish in a bag, and just treat the one fish.
ICK
The disease most often seen is one called Ick. This is caused by the protozoan Ichthyophthirius. It embeds itself in the skin of the fish and causes a small white blister to form. This blister then enlarges and in a few days it bursts, releasing the parasite. The adult drops to the bottom of the tank and forms a cyst which has up to 2000 young inside. These become free swimming and the cycle starts again.
The fish will be seen rubbing on plants and other objects ni the tank. They will also have visible white spots that can spread over the entire body and fins.
Ick is a very contagious disease and can be spread from one tank to the next on wet objects like nets. It is caused by a chill, or exposure to the parasite. Treatments are aimed at breaking the life cycle at the free swimming stage. An increase ni the water temperature to 80-85 F and adding one teaspoon of salt per gallon is an effective treatment, but you should first check that your fish are not susceptible to salt as some species are.
Disease index
VELVET
The second common protozoal disease is velvet. This is similar to ick except the spots on the fish will be yellow and they move. It is fatal to young fish and must be treated immediately. It is caused by the protozoan Oodinium. It attaches to the fish by a whip like flagella and then grows more deeply into the fish with pseudopods. The cyst remains on the skin, and 200 brand new, free swimming parasites may be released.
Disease index
MOUTH FUNGUS
Mouth fungus is caused by a bacteria called Chondrococcus. It is seen as a white cottony growth around the lips. In later stages, grey tufts sprouting from the mouth can be seen. Due to the toxin that it produces, and due to the decreased ability of eating that the infected fish has, it causes rapid death unless treated early. Again, there are commercial treatments available, and penicillin is quite effective. It is often seen in fish that have had their mouths bruised during shipping.
Disease index
TUBERCULOSIS
Tuberculosis, caused by Mycobacterium is important as it is possible for humans to become infected with it. In the fish, it causes thinnes, tattered fins, decreased appetites, skin ulcers and loss of colour. There is no known cure for it in fish.
Disease index
TAIL AND FIN ROT
Tail and fin rot is another common bacterial disease in fish. It is characterized by ragged fins and tails. Blood streaks may be present. It is commonly seen in overcrowded tanks. If you improve the conditions and increase aeration, the fish will survive, and may regenerate complete new fins.
Disease index
DROPSY
Dropsy is characterized by a general swelling of the fish with protrusion of the scales. It is usually a result of a kidney infection, causing fluid accumulation. It does not appear to be contagious. Fish in tanks under excellent care may be affected, and practically all cases are fatal in 1-3 weeks.
Disease index
ARGULUS
There is a louse called Argulus which is commonly seen on fish. It is a crustacean and may be introduced into the tank with live foods or with new fish. It is a flattened, mite like creature about 5mm long. It has compound eyes, suckers with large adhesive discs and four pairs of swimming legs.
Argulus attaches to the fish with its suckers and feeds on the host's blood. This irritates the host, which shows clamped fins, restlessness and may show inflamed areas where the lice have been. It can be picked off the fish with forceps, but this may be hard to do if you have small fish. You should treat the area with potassium permanganate, but this is messy, as it is purple, and precipitates out as a brown sludge.
The adult louse will feed for 5-6 weeks before becoming sexually mature. It then lays eggs which attach to the walls of the tank, or onto plants and these hatch in 4 weeks to attach to other fish.
The louse can transmit other diseases from one fish to another. They take nutritive substances from the host, and inject a poison that irritates the host. Smaller fish can only tolerate a couple of them at any one time. The fish can also get further infections from the puncture wounds.
Disease index
GYRODACTYLUS
A second common fish parasite is the fluke. The most common fluke seen in tropical fish is Gyrodactylus. It is smaller than the louse, and is about 1mm in length.
This organism infects the gills and skin. It looks a little bit like ICK, only the white spots move. You can also detect black eye spots on the organism. When the host dies, Gyrodactylus will leave the fish immediately. Symptoms include droopy fins, rapid breathing, lack of colour, and weight loss. It can be treated with louse medication, or with a small amount of salt. Again check that none of your fish or plants are susceptible to the salt treatment.
Disease index
THREADWORMS
The last parasite that I will cover is a threadworm. This worm infects any part of the body, but is usually only detected when it is in the gut and is seen hanging from the anus. Only heavy infestations will really bother the fish.
Disease index
IN SUMMARY, Fish do get a variety of diseases, including bacterial, protozoan, viral and parasitic. These are more commonly seen though in fish that are kept in a poor environment. Well kept fish do not often fall prey to disease. Perform preventative measures, do regular checkups on your fish and the tank, and with proper care, your fish should live a complete, healthy, happy life.
References:
Innes, W.T. Exotic Aquarium Fishes. The Innes Book. 19th 3d. Metaframe Corp. USA. 1988
Schliewen, Ulrich. Aquarium Fish. Barrons Educational Series Inc. 1992.