Algonquin Park 2002
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After all the fun I had canoeing in Algonquin Park last spring, I decided to do it again. My girlfriend Emily and I
did a six day moving loop in the north-western corner, starting at the Kiosk access point. Although it would have been
nice to use a human powered vehicle
to get there, time constraints did not allow for it, so we borrowed a van and drove instead.
Our route was a loop as follows:
- Kioshkokwi Lake to Mink Lake
- Mink Lake to Big Thunder Lake
- Big Thunder Lake to Maple Lake
- Maple Lake to North Sylvia Lake
- North Sylvia Lake to Manitou Lake
- Manitou Lake to Kioshkokwi Lake
Here is a brief journal of the trip. Click on the hyperlinked text for photos. Emily has also graciously provided
artistic renditions of each days highlights or camping spot.
Sun May 05 - Kiosk to Mink Lake - 2 portages totaling 1180m
Started early by packing up the van and got on the road by about 06:30. It was a pretty uneventful four hour drive.
Got hit by a small bit of rain, but by the time we had reached the access point it was a beautiful day. We
paddled out
onto Kioskowki Lake with little wind and a clear blue sky. After about an hour of paddling we had reached the
first portage. Here we ate a packed lunch of sandwiches and fruit before making the carry. I carried the canoe and
small pack while Emily carried the large pack. After carrying for a while I decided to
take a rest and waited for Emily to catch up. While resting I hiked a few meters up the
trail to check what the terrtain was like around the next corner. It turned out that the
trail ended there, so we quickly finished the carry after realizing we were so close to the end. After a short paddle
across Little Mink Lake, we had reached the second portage, where we had to coodinate with another party going the
other direction at the landing. After a very short carry we were on Mink lake. We paddled down to the far end to
camp. We saw many other canoes on this lake. All were heading in the opposite direction. Most likely people returning
since it is the end of the weekend. It seemed that most people were using the old rail line instead of the cut portage
trail. This is longer, but I guess it is flatter even though the trails were pretty easy today. We found a
good campsite
at the end of the lake. I had to cut the top off of a fallen tree to make room for the tent. Since it was still
early we took a short hike over to Cauchon Lake. Had a good supper of fresh vegetable stir-fry with couscous.
Finished the evening with a small fire to clean up the mess of garbage left by the previous tenants.
Slept really well last night which was suprising as I usually sleep poorly the first night of a camping trip. Got up
at first light and it started raining
almost immediately. Ate a quick breakfast of dry cereal and then paddled over
to the first portage. We passed over this kilometer with just one rest. We saw a bunch of fresh bear droppings, but
fortunateley no bear to go with them. At the end of the trail was an
old brick building
which the forest has been
working for many years to reclaim. We figure that it must be an old logging facility. Paddled across Club Lake
and then through a small swamp to get to the second portage. Here we had to cross some rocks
over the rapids to
get to the trail. Got over this one in a single go. At the end, I taught Emily how to take a compass bearing off
the map. She then navigated us directly across the lake, and we just missed the landing on the other side. The
landing here was very muddy. As I was pulling the canoe through the muck, I stepped in some really deep stuff
and sank up to my knees. Fortunately my feet stayed dry. A thank you goes out to the Canadian Forces for specifying
such good boots, which can be purchased at surplus stores. This next carry was more difficult,
with a fairly steep climb most of the way.
There were also many trees which had fallen across the trail which had not been cleared yet. Fortunately most of
these could be stepped over. After three rests,
we finally made it across, and had a quick lunch before paddling
into another swamp. After winding through this in the rain for a couple of kilometers, we came across the final
portage of the day. This one was only 230m and took us no time at all to reach Big Thunder Lake. Another short
paddle brought us to the campsite
which is quite beautiful on the end of a small penisula. Just after we set up
camp we got hit by a short thunder storm which is kind of fitting with a lake named as such. I cannot quite
figure out why there is a thundershower in early May when it had been cold and rainy all day. We read for a while
in the tent, and then lit a fire when the rain stopped so we could dry off. This did not work so well as it started
raining soon again. Cooked supper in a light drizzle and then retired to the tent in a downpour after cleaning up.
No need to extinguish the fire tonight as Mother Nature is taking care of that for us.
Woke up around 06:00 and started cooking a pancake breakfast. As we were finishing up it started to rain, a rain that
would last for most of the day. After packing up and a brief paddle we had reached the first portage. The landing
here was very difficult. We had to carry the canoe over a bunch of slippery rocks and logs to get to the trail. The
trail was also fairly difficult. Not only was the trail very rough with rocks and roots, but many fallen trees
obstructed the path. At one point we stopped to cross one large log, but found it possible and easier to push
the log out of the way altogether. After finally reaching the end of the 1600 meters, we stopped for a brief snack
at a campsite situated at the end of the portage. We head out onto Erables lake in the pouring rain and a howling
wind in our faces. We stuck close to shore and navigated the waves as we slowly moved northward. We saw a couple
other canoes out on the lake as well. After about a 90 minute paddle, the portage at the north end was reached. After a
quick carry over this 80m, we took advantage of a break in the rain to cook up some hot falafel sandwiches on the
shore of the rapids. Something about a hot meal on a cold rainy day is just the best thing... well maybe a cold beer
on a hot sunny day... but not possible when three days into the woods. After a short paddle onto Maple Lake we
found a nice island to camp on. We set up camp and then
climbed into the tent to get out of the rain for a bit.
Played some cards, read, and snoozed a while when it finally stopped raining. We took a short paddle over to a
neighbouring island to explore and then upon returning, lit a fire to cook some hot dogs for supper.
Relaxed and
dried up a bit around the fire
for the rest of the evening. It looks like the sky is trying to clear. Hopefully
the weather will improve tomorrow.
Woke up this morning to witness a beautiful sunrise and a clear blue sky. It was very cold however. I guess you cannot
have everything. After a quick breakfast of oatmeal we packed up camp and paddled out onto the lake with a gentle,
but cold tailwind. We drifted along
for some of the way, letting the wind do the work for propulsion. The first
portage was easy, and except for a tree in the way which had to be climbed over, was done in a single pass. Ratrap
lake was an interesting launch, as a tree had fallen a few feet from and parallel to the shore, but was managed with
less difficulty than it looked. Again we let the wind do most of the pushing
across this lake. The next portage took
a while as it was pretty long, rough, and again lots of downed trees across the trail. At one rest point we heard a
sound really close which we have been hearing all through this trip. It is a thumping sound that starts off slow
and then increases in frequency, much like a rubber ball bouncing. I do not know what this is, but suspect it is a
beaver thumping its tail on the ground. (I learned later from my father that it is the mating call of a grouse.)
We heard this several times before we continued down the trail. The put in at
Boggy Lake also had a log in the water making things difficult. This one, we found, was floating and we managed
to push it out of the way. A quick paddle across this lake brought us to the final portage. It went easily except
for banging my knee really hard while attempting to step over yet another downed tree. The launch onto North Sylvia
Lake was an easy sand beach. No logs in the way this time. We paddled around the lake and examined the three
campsites. Only one was nice, so we set up camp there.
It was only noon so we ate lunch and enjoyed ourselves
for the rest of the day. This place is perfect for swimming so, even though it was cold, I dove in. I stayed
in the water all of thirty seconds as the water was freezing. Took a hike around the area and over to the next
lake. Found a recently used bear den and a whole pile of trees which had recently been
struck by lightning.
Relaxed for the rest of the day by reading and playing cards by the water in the warm sunshine. As
we were sitting
by the lake we heard some loud rustling noises by the fire pit. We went to investigate and found a huge raven routing
through the garbage we had placed there for burning later. When it saw us it stole a ziplock bag full of empty
instant oatmeal packets. I chased it into the woods hoping to recover our 'loss'. The raven stopped in a tall
tree and a couple of the paper oatmeal packets dropped. I could not find them however as they are the same colour
as the dry leaves on the ground. The raven flew away with the remainder. I hope it enjoys its catch. Today I can be
accussed of the littering of one plastic bag and four paper pouches. Lesson learned: keep all garbage away until
ready to burn.
Awoke to a beautiful day. Warm and sunny, but a little bit of a brisk wind. Fortunately the wind was blowing our
direction. After packing up camp and a brief paddle, we had reached the first portage over to Three Mile Lake.
The wind at this point was quite strong and beginning to blow up some whitecaps in the middle of the lake. We
were going to be in for a rough ride. We also saw a couple other canoes making progress up the other side. We
head out onto the lake, mostly just steering, as the wind was providing ample forward propulsion. We travelled
north until the lake was narrow enough to make the crossing. Neverthless, the trip was very rough as the waves
now had the full force of the lake behind them. After a brief battle upwind, we made it to the portage right behind
the other two canoes. This party of four were returning after a week long trip. They had quite a lot of gear, and
even a folding wheeled dolly for rolling the canoe along the trail. The portage was easy, although long at almost
three kilometers. The first half was along a smooth fire road
then it got a little rougher with only one downed
tree to skirt over. We reached the end after a long steep descent and broke out the food for a much needed snack.
As we were eating, the other party arived with their canoes. They had to go back for their packs. I cannot imagine
doubling over a three km as it turns it into nine! The wind had died so we
paddled onto Manitou on relatively calm water and began
looking for a camping spot. We found an absolutely beautiful island,
but upon exploration found quite a bit of
fresh bear scat so we decided to leave. Moved to another island farther out in the lake, and while
rather exposed,
seemed quite nice. While cooking up some lunch, rain began to threaten, so I quickly
set up the tent while Emily
tended to the soup. It started pouring not moments later. The wind also picked up again with a fiersome strength. We
are now trapped on this island. The lake is much too rough to safely venture out onto. That is ok, since we do not
need to leave until tomorrow. Hid in the tent all afternoon reading, sleeping, and playing cards. Took advantage
of a break in the rain to cook up some supper but retreated back to the tent immediately after, since the rain started
up again. Hid in there for the rest of the evening. I sincerely hope the wind dies, at least until we can reach the
shore tomorrow morning.
The wind blew all night. Actually that is not true as it stopped around 23:30, but by 02:00 it was blowing hard again.
We got up at first light, and decided to get off of the island as quickly as possible before the wind got any stronger.
After a quick packing job, we were on the lake before 06:00 bouncing over the waves as we made our way towards the
mainland. We stopped at a the first campsite we came across and cooked up some breakfast. While doing so it started to
snow. Snow in mid May... interesting. After eating we head back out onto the lake for a rough ride all the way to the
portage over to Amabl du Fond river. For the most part we were running with the wind, so just had to hold on for the
ride, but in a couple of places where we were heading northward, we had to tack back and forth to prevent capsizing in
the waves. After an hour or so of tossing and turning, we landed on a sandy beach
at the portage. The carry was
not too difficult, as the terrain was realatively easy. The wind however made holding the canoe steady on my shoulders
hard as it was constantly trying to spin it around. At least I had a big hat to keep myself out of the falling snow and
rain. After only a single rest stop, we reached the end and head out onto the river. Saw some
neat rapids as we
launched, and then paddled and drifted downwards, letting the current and wind do most of the work. The ride was smooth
even though the wind was howling. The snow and rain kept coming down in bursts and then stopping for a while. We
landed at the head of some more rapids, and after a couple short portages
got around these. There was some neat fungus
growing on one of the trees near the end of the last one. After a quick snack, we paddled out onto Kioshkokwi Lake.
The start was easy, as we just drifted along with the wind, and the waves had not had a chance to build up on the west
side. We followed along the west coast to keep sheltered from the wind, and stopped for lunch on a point just before
entering Wolfe Bay. It was here I wanted to make the crossing over to the north coast. However, the wind was now
blowing strong enough to be called a storm and the waves were too
dangerous in the middle to attempt the crossing. It
was blowing so hard we could hear trees crashing down in the woods. We decided to head into the wind up Wolfe Bay and
make the crossing when it was possible at a narrower part of the channel. This is a complete deja-vu of my trip with
Wendy last year on Cedar lake. Luckily Kioshkokwi is a smaller lake, however the wind this year was much stronger.
After battling the wind for 45 minutes or so up the arm, the crossing was safe so we made it. Then it was just a
rough ride all the way back to the parking lot as the wind pushed us along. Most of the way we did not bother paddling,
and just steered, letting the wind and waves provide all the propulsion. As we progressed the waves got larger as they
had more lake to build up on. When we got to the landing, the waves were almost three feet high.
I am suprised that we
were able to continue without swamping. The landing was less than graceful. We could not make it over to the beach,
as we were being pushed into shore too quickly to round the point. We decided (stupidly, but without much choice) to
land at some car campsite with a rocky shoreline. We were bringing the canoe in nicely between the rocks, when
suddenly the
waves grabbed the boat and turned it sideways. We had to jump out into the cold water to avoid getting smashed into the
rocks. At that point the waves swamped the boat, and we quickly unloaded the gear and then dragged the boat onto shore.
I ran down the road and brought the van up, where we loaded up and then
got the hell out of there as the wind blew and snow
came down. Overall the trip was a good one. The weather could have been a little nicer, as it rained every day except
for days 1 and 4. Snow in May is a little odd and unexpected. We did not see any human beings on days 2 and 4, and
the only humans we saw on day 6 were after we had landed at Kiosk. Unfortunately we saw little wild life except for
birds. We were hoping to see at least one moose, but only saw droppings and a single antler along the trails.
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