Paris: The Birthday Trip - Day 10 & Day 11

Denise at the Arc de Triomphe.
Our last full day in Paris and our first destination is the Arc de Triomphe.
Everyone has seen this Paris icon in films, old newsreels, and virtually every Second World (European) War documentary, but, as with everything you think you know, the 'real' thing is so much more. The size of it, for example, is meaningless until you are standing under it, and the memorial inscriptions are not visible in any meaningful way until you are right there, and the famous bas-reliefs are much more impressive than any photograph can reveal. We spent some time here along with other early arrivals, all remarkably quiet, before heading off to the Seine for a boat tour.
We don't usually take the commercial tours available in every major city but we may have changed our attitude on that score. This was a fun and interesting way to get a different view of the city and a much better look at the various sculptures and decorations on the bridges than you can get from the embankments. Some of these boats can carry huge numbers of people but we took an early tour and so had an easy time moving around to get the best view of the sites. It was a very pleasant hour.
And then we set off again. Walk. Coffee. Walk. Paris.
| A view from the tour boat. | A view of the Eiffel Tower from the tour boat. | Best view of bridge ornaments. |
| Metro entrance. | Classic stairwell. | Paris bus. |
It's really very difficult to give an accurate idea of what it's like to walk in Paris. You start out with a goal in mind but are almost immediately sidetracked by one diversion or another. It might be a beautiful church with saint's relics on display in a side chapel, a plaque marking the spot where a young resistance fighter was killed, a picturesque little street, or an interesting looking building. But that's what we're here for - the distractions are the city as much as the famous sites are.
An example of a little 'diversion' is the building where we found the stairwell pictured above - Denise decided she wanted to have a look inside and marched right in (she's braver than I am). A woman followed us in and Denise immediately struck up a conversation, half english, half french, and asked the purpose of the building and "Would it be alright for us to have a look around?". It turned out that this was an office building, mainly lawyers, and yes, it would be acceptable for us to look around. A little courage, or nerve, opened up a little part of Paris that we would never have seen otherwise.
Denise also wanted to try getting around on the Paris bus system, a little more daunting than the Metro, and thus the picture above right.

Denise filling her water bottle at Shakespeare and Company.
At this point I wasn't aware that we were on a quest for a site that Denise was determined to get to before we left Paris - and this was our last chance to do so. We made our way through a maze of streets, Denise stopping frequently to ask the way - there's a little problem here with streets that have one name on one side of a main street and another name on the other.
We found ourselves making our way through the crowds in the very busy tourist area around St. Michel and then, after another turn or two, there we were - the Shakespeare and Company bookstore! Probably the most famous bookstore in the world. I don't know how much coming here would mean to the majority of people but I was overwhelmed.
We realized that we had been very close to it a number of times during our travels around Paris - turn your back on the bookstore and you get a beautiful view of Notre Dame just across the narrower branch of the Seine where the river divides to make its way around the Île de la Cité.
Of course I had to have a souvenir and of course that souvenir was a translation of Victor Hugo's Notre-Dame de Paris. And a t-shirt with a discrete Shakespeare and Company logo.
Love that wife of of mine! She's always surprising me in ways that take my breath away.
Paris: The Birthday Trip - Day 11
| Here we are taking a last early morning walk around our neighbourhood. I love the centre photo of 'The Smoking Dog Cafe' (Le chien qui fume) with the Eiffel Tower in the background. |
Tuesday, August 6, 2013
This is the most difficult time of any trip - the last few hours before you make your way to the airport to leave a place you have loved.
We went out for a last walk around 'our' neighbourhood in the early morning light. We weren't too happy knowing that we were seeing these now familiar sites for the last time - or at least until we have the opportunity to return. Eventually, too soon, we had to return to the hotel for breakfast, make sure that our bill was properly settled, tip the desk staff, and get our luggage down to the lobby to wait for the airport shuttle.
And what a wild ride that turned out to be! We seemed to make our way back and forth across Paris a number of times as the shuttle picked up people from various hotels - with each stop being a moment of calm escape from the Paris traffic. We even passed our own hotel about an hour after we had set out for the airport! After a particularly heated bout of shouting and gesturing as he faced down some aggressive oncoming traffic in a particularly narrow street, our driver explained that driving skill was judged by the driver's command of Paris slang. We got the impression that he was a very skilled driver. Ultimately, we all got to our respective terminals safely and on time - though we did watch one couple disappear into their terminal running in full sprint mode with all of their luggage.
Emotionally, this is a very contradictory time. On the one hand, we enjoy flying and someone else will be taking care of us for the next 6 or 8 or 9 hours, and we are travelling toward the comforts of the familiar. On the other hand, we are leaving a place that we have fallen in love with. Paris, we were finding out, is a very, very difficult city to leave.

Au revoir...
Previously: Day 1, Day 2 (part 1), Day 2 (part 2), Day 2 (part 3), Day 3 (part 1) Day 3 (part 2), Day 4 (part 1), Day 4 (part 2),
Day 5 (part 1), Day 5 (part 2), Day 5 (part 3), Day 6, Day 7 (part1), Day 7 (part2), Day 8 (part1), Day 8 (part2), Day 9 (part1),
Day 9 (part2)