Bicycle Touring in Oregon 2013: Portland to Hood River, Sisters, Crater Lake and Klamath Falls Via Skyline Drive, Cascade Lakes Highway, and Volcanic Legacy Scenic Byway

The Tour

Cycling in Portland

35


miles

Troutdale and Columbia River Gorge

50


miles

Hood River

42


miles

Parkdale and Frog Lake

43


miles

Skyline Drive and Detroit

66


miles

Santiam Pass and Sisters

64


miles

Rest Day in Sisters



miles

Bend, Cascade Lakes Highway and Elk Lake

60


miles

Cascade Lakes Highway and Crescent Lake

50


miles

Chemult, Cascade Summit, and Diamond Lake

59


miles

Pumice Desert and Crater Lake National Park

21


miles

Rim Drive of Crater Lake

35


miles

Volcanic Legacy Scenic Byway and Klamath Falls

72


miles

TOTAL:

597


miles



The tour starts in Portland, follows Columbia River to town of Hood River, includes Skyline Drive on the route to Sisters and Bend, takes the Cascade Lakes Highway toward Crater Lake National Park, loops Crater Lake on the Rim Drive, and closes with a blast down the Volcanic Legacy Scenic Byway all the way to Klamath Falls. This is a challenging tour with lots of extended periods of climbing – days 4, 5, and 6 each have 4,000 feet of climbing. There are other days with significant, though shorter, climbs. The tour is also challenging since it is unsupported – i.e., no motorized support like a van. All movement down the highway is human powered. The equipment is carried in bicycle panniers and Larry's “Bob” bicycle trailer.

This text contains selected pictures. Other web pages contain more pictures and details of the interpretative signs.

Cycling in Portland – 35 Miles


Trail along Willamette River in Portland


A recommended bicycle route in Portland


Springwater Corridor Trail in Portland


Portland Food Carts in a vacant lot – a unique opportunity


Looking down at Portland from exit of Portland Aerial Tram


A street in Downtown Portland – SW 6th Ave and SW Broadway



The tour starts at NW Portland Hostel on NW 18th street in Portland, Oregon. On the first day, we ride around Portland on designated bicycle routes and trails and return to the Hostel. The ride around Portland starts slowly on tourist-trails along the waterfront of the Willamette River. A bit further on, four of the eleven tour members, including myself, go all the way up Powell Butte through a bit of construction. It will be a great place in a few months. There will be a new visitor centre. The view is hazy right now due to the smoke in the air from a number of Forest Fires – the forest fire danger is Extreme through most of this trip due to an extended period of drought. We return to downtown Portland on the Springwater Trail which is well used by all from toddlers to racers and triathletes.

Portland truly is a bicycle-friendly city, or, at least, has lots of facilities to accommodate bicycles. The ride around Portland ends with a trip on the Portland Aerial Tram followed by a blast back down the hill.

NW Portland Hostel is a great place to stay. It is well run. There are complementary towels and free wifi. I acquire a bicycle map of Portland at the Hostel when I ask for it plus a detailed map of the downtown area. First, I leave my bicycle outside in the courtyard, and later learn that our group has an indoor storage area for bicycles. I move mine there. I eventually dose off in an upper bunk. Sleeping is OK. I have 3 hours to catch up from my life in “the east.”

Our group has a meeting in the courtyard of the Hostel where we learn that Steve, the leader, did this trip last year, and added improvements for this year's edition. We all have great expectations, eh?

Troutdale and Columbia River Gorge – 50 Miles


Trail along Columbia River beside Portland Airport


Boats in Columbia River beside bicycle trail


Troutdale


Troutdale


Looking to Vista House on cliff of Columbia River Gorge


Horsetail Falls, Columbia River Gorge



The first day of loaded touring starts out on relatively flat roads through Portland's suburbs and on a trail along the Columbia River by the Portland Airport. Some riders find a dead-end after going a bit too far on one side street, and, then, get back on track after going back 3 short blocks. The flat trail along the Columbia River continues until Troutdale where the hillier route of the Columbia Gorge begins.

In Troutdale I do an extra side trip to get stuff for eating as I volunteered to help Brian cook this evening. I go to a Safeway store with Brian and Steve. It's up a huge hill. We get a discount at Safeway after the clerk asks “Do you have a Safeway card?” and I ask her “What difference does it make?” She immediately gets us a card and we get a discount of 7 to 8 dollars on our $150 purchase. The hill up to the Safeway is so steep that I get up to a speed of 33 mph when going back down. Well, the weight of all today's food that I'm carrying does help my speed going down, eh?

After Troutdale, the route is on the Historic Columbia River Highway through the Columbia River canyon. There are lots of waterfalls, a road that winds and twists, and few cars. I stop many times and take pictures. The most popular spot is Multinomah Falls. It's packed with tourists.

Our group stays at Ainsworth State Park where I help Brian prepare our evening meal. He makes a dish of gluten-free pasta since today's guests are a VIP from Adventure Cycling and her husband who have these dietary requirements. They are fine people as we discover from talking to them for a bit. They encourage us on this trip and on being involved in future endeavours with Adventure Cycling.

Hood River – 42 Miles


Near Ainsworth State Park in morning, Columbia River Gorge


Columbia River


Picking Blackberries where these folk had a homestead before the expressway!


Looking down a steep hill toward downtown of Hood River


Sail-boarders in Columbia River at Hood River


Sail-boarders in Columbia River at Hood River



Today's ride starts with less than a mile before hitting the interstate. At this point there is an option to use the old road which is currently under construction to be a bicycle trail. I take the fresh trail; many others ride on the paved shoulder of the expressway. There is similarly another choice a bit further on to take a steep hilly road, or stay on the interstate. I take the hill; some others take the expressway as it is flatter.

At 1 point, Nita, Larry and myself, talk with an old 83 year old woman who is picking wild blackberries beside the expressway at end of a service road. She tells us that she was born right here and lived here for many years until the freeway was constructed. It was much quieter then.

At another point along the Columbia River Gorge, I take a short side-trip to see Mitchell's Point which is 300 metres up. There were 3 short tunnels here on the original road. Now there are none. The original tunnels disappeared when most of a hill was excavated when constructing the interstate.

In Hood River, I go down the steep hill to downtown which is still quite alive with a number of small stores. I talk a bit with a town promoter who comes out of a pizza spot. He tells me about other bicycling group that have been through town. One stays in a hotel across the street. He then goes on to tell me about the other recreational opportunities in Hood River - sail boarding, mountain biking, kayaking, canoeing, etc. Downtown is a vibrant place. There are many sports stores and lots of pedestrians walking around. I see some stores with bicycles, sail boards, and kayaks in their windows.

Just beside downtown is a huge area for sail boarding. Hood River is a world renown location for doing sail boarding. I walk along a path by Columbia River, note the constant wind, see many sail boarders, both on shore and out doing it. There is a huge city park along the water devoted to the sport

I do find a laundromat in Hood River, but decide to do other things and skip washing clothes at this point. As it is, I later end up rinsing out lots of clothes many nights in future. Perhaps a stop in the laundry is an opportunity missed? There are no laundromats at the campground where we stay, Tucker County Park, that's a substantial distance from town – more than 5 miles. It is a pleasant county campground beside a small rapids on the Hood River.

Parkdale and Frog Lake – 43 Miles


Mt Hood in the morning


Mt Hood peaks out behind Community Centre in Parkdale


East Fork of Hood River


Mt Hood and White River


Frog Lake



Today's voyage goes from Hood River to Frog Lake campground. Essentially, today's trip cruises around the east side of Mount Hood. We get multiple views of the summit.

The first big stop today is after only 10 miles in Parkdale. The group stops here since it is the last genuine food store of any size that we will see today. We buy food here and carry it for more than 30 miles over a major mountain pass. Somehow, getting food takes about an hour. Parkdale is a small town with a museum and a community centre. After Parkdale for a bit, as before, the route follows the valley of the Hood River. All farming is irrigated and there are many fruit trees. Perhaps you've purchased fruit from the Hood River Valley?

Soon, the road turns upward towards Bennett Pass, the first major pass of this trip, at about 4,000 feet of climbing. Somehow, I jack-rabbit ahead here and end up at camp in Frog Lake over an hour before anyone else. My climbing ability is not surprising since I have hills at home to work out on; whereas, many trip members are from places that just have flat topography. One male cyclist who is on a day trip, flies by going the other way just before I reach the pass. He says it is coming soon as it does. At this point I'm pretty sure I can feel cool winds from the pass. His encouraging words drive me on-to-the-pass.

It's a great day for travelling with sunshine and mild temperatures. I do get a bit warm going up to the Bennett Pass, but realize that I'm being pushed by a cool breeze whenever I stop. There's a light, cool breeze going at about the same speed my bicycle is travelling so it is invisible when travelling, but I do feel it when I stop.

I take my best pictures of Mount Hood just after Bennett Pass when crossing the White River. There is a huge river washout here indicating that the White River is very wide with much water in the spring. It must be at least a quarter a mile wide?

At one point today I talk to a cyclist who is going the other way towards Hood River with his girl friend. They are on short trip from Portland to visit his parents in Hood River. Amazingly, he is riding the same Nashbar frame and the same wheels that I am! He mutters about wanting a different frame, but, heh, it's doing this mountain pass OK, eh?

Skyline Drive and Detroit – 66 Miles


Clackamas Lake historic ranger station


View from Clackamas Lake historic ranger station


Skyline Drive has some narrow bridges


Is there room for a bicycle & a logging truck on Skyline Drive?


Detroit


Detroit Lake



The highlight of today's trip is bicycling the forest roads that compromise Skyline Drive. Much of today's ride is off highways and on paved forest roads. It's great. Skyline drive goes through dense forest most of the time. One can almost touch the trees and hear the birds. There is very little traffic and perhaps more logging trucks than cars, and there are few of either. The road is very narrow and at times is really just one wide lane. Now, does one stop when a logging truck approaches on this road? I did. Some others kept riding and told me that they had the biggest scares of their lives.

Somehow, I ride at the front of the group again today and arrive at camp much before the others. I think my fitness is much better this year than in prior years?

Detroit is a small town just beside today's campground. I look for a bicycle tire in Detroit since my bike's front one is having problems. It's fixed for now with my tire “boot,” but I'll be much happier when I have a new tire. In the general store, I'm told that “There are some bicycle tires on order as there is another big group of riders coming through soon.” Alas, the order is still “coming.” I ask at another store with no luck.

Looking for this bicycle tire gets me talking to local residents. The big problem with economic development in Detroit is that there is really just one tourist season, in the summer, and it is short. Skiing locations are too far distant for people to stay in Detroit in the winter. Compounding this whole problem of economic development is the fact that the local reservoir is drained near the beginning of September every year. This cancels any opportunities for boating and fishing in the fall. As a result, almost all tourists and cottage owners go elsewhere after September 1, leaving Detroit with a tourist season of, perhaps, the 2 months of July and August?

Santiam Pass and Sisters – 64 Miles


Detroit


Indanha - a few miles after Detroit


Whitewater Creek


Marion Creek


Just after Santiam Pass: the forest recovering from huge B&B forest fire in 2003


Deschutes National Forest in valley near Sisters after descent from Santiam Pass – Ponderosa Pine trees



Today's feature is riding Santiam Pass. The highway is very busy. The “pass” is just a bunch of trees and rather rounded rather than peaked, nothing spectacular. Most of today's ride is through national forests so there are very few commercial outlets; and, there is the smell of forest fires. One is rather close at about 10 miles away.

I read a number of information panels about forest fires just after going through Santiam Pass. These are about the huge B&B forest fire in 2003. Again, I ride at the front. I have a smoothie in MacDonalds restaurant when I first arrive in Sisters. It's one of the first stores that I find. I cycle around Sisters and do find a bicycle store with a bicycle tire for sale! In fact there are TWO bicycle stores in Sisters!

One of the trip members preceded us all to Sisters. He got a ride in a pick-up truck last evening since his bicycle shorts and body and seat are having negative interactions. He amazingly recovers after 2 days of rest, today and tomorrow, and completes the tour. I eventually find him in Sisters State Park where we are camping today. I quickly put up my tent as I sense an approaching storm. I sit in the tent and make a few notes on my netbook – the starting point for this web-page, eh? Alll those in camp soon put up a tarp, too, when it starts to rain and thunder.

A few stragglers get to camp much, much later. They were caught in the thunder storm and at such an elevation that they experienced hail rather than the rain that occurred at the campsite. At least these people come to camp. One other couple heads for a motel to warm up and dry off, instead! I guess the storm was rather violent and scary? As it is the ground is quite dry within half an hour of the thunderstorm since the air is dry in this arid climate of Sisters and the fire conditions are extreme so water is quickly absorbed into the ground.

Our cycling group soon finds a pub just down the street, Three Creeks Brewing Llc, where we all tell tall tales of the big storms we have previously encountered on the road. The campground is peaceful for sleeping, but does have a somewhat constant drone of noise due to the continuous car traffic on the highway that is close by.

Rest Day in Sisters


Veterans Memorial Garden, Sisters, OR


Sisters-Camp Sherman Fire District Station, Sisters, OR

Today is a rest day. We camp in the same spot tonight. First off, I share a washing machine and dryer with another cyclist for washing my clothes, at last. It's been awhile. Last time was at home! I've been just rinsing them out every evening. A real wash is definitely in order. While at the laundry, we do get a drop-in solicitation from a local religious person who's face I remember from last time I was in Sisters! We turn her down. Now, I think I know her too well, eh? I think she propositioned me a few years ago at the top of McKenzie Pass, just outside Sisters. That's another story. I turned her down then, too.

After the laundromat we go to a local bakery and have a delicious brunch. Next is a trip to a local bicycle store to get a new part so her bike is more comfortable to ride. What a pleasant day in Sisters, eh?

In the afternoon, I update my diary while sitting on a comfortable wooden bench in front of the Public Library. The Library is closed on Friday and Saturday – today is Saturday, already? Even so the Library's wifi works and is powerful so I can access the Internet from the porch. The Library is relatively new and well thought out. There is a huge porch with benches on the front side by the parking lot. It's quiet, too, being off the main street. A couple of other people come and use the Wifi while I'm sitting there.

The weather is much cooler than I expected for Sisters. I expected hot temperatures. That's the usual weather. As it is, it's warm enough that I feel OK just wearing a t-shirt. But, it's definitely not in the sauna that I expected.

Some cyclists in our group take a side-trip to McKenzie Pass today. They are delighted. It has a windy road up and a definite peak area with rocky outcrops. I went there a couple of years ago on another trip. It's definitely a good, scenic side trip.

All our group meets up, again, at the campsite, and goes to the same pub as last evening. Well, most of the group, anyways. The 2 motel campers have moved on to Bend. We tell more tall tales about other trips on the road.

Bend, Cascade Lakes Highway and Elk Lake – 60 Miles


The 3 Sisters Mountains from 3-Sisters-viewpoint


Tumalo


Suburb of Bend, OR


Safeway food store in Bend, OR


Newbury-Cascade Volcanic Battleground, Cascade Lakes Highway


Bicycles near Mt Bachelor resort


Mt Bachelor


Sparks Lake


Devils Lake


Historic Elk Lake Guard Station


Elk Lake



Today's big feature is travelling the Cascade Lakes Highway. Before this the route goes 20 miles to Bend. It's semi-desert and arid with sagebrush. There are a few trees at times, some on irrigated lands. Along the way to Bend, I go through Tumalo, a small vibrant community. After this, the route goes around Bend on its outskirts. There are lots of cyclists out riding this Sunday morning. Many go past in the other direction on the roads that we're travelling. A few others whizz by. Now, I guess, if I got rid of my touring bags, I could keep up?

We stop and use our Safeway card, one more time, in Bend. Again, today, we carry food quite some distance as there are very few stores on the roads where we are bicycling.

The Cascade Lakes Highway starts just after Bend. It is wonderful. There are rolling hills, a number of Lakes, and Mount Bachelor. I stop many times and take lots of pictures. The first part of Cascade Lakes Highway also has a paved shoulder. There's a lot less traffic by the time the paved shoulder ends, but still a few cars.

Cascade Lakes Highway and Crescent Lake – 50 Miles


Lava Lake


Deschutes River


Davis Fire of 2003, Davis Lake in distance


Davis Lake


Simax Campground, Crescent Lake


Crescent Lake



Again, today, the big feature is the the Cascade Lakes Highway. It ends just a few miles before Crescent Lake.

Today is my day to prepare the evening meal with Ms. Terry. We purchase lots of food in a small store in the town of Crescent Lake that is only a couple of miles from the Simax Campground where we are staying. The store in Crescent Lake is just a general store so the fixings for eating are rather limited. It takes imagination to prepare a tasty meal. I make up this combination of sardines, rice, wieners, canned peas and canned tomatoes. There is some extra zipp added since the sardines are 2 cans in tomato sauce and 1 can in hot Mexican chili spices. It IS tasty.

We also purchase food for tomorrow's breakfast and lunch. This is where the group starts eating Cheerios rather than granola since that's all that is available in this store and there are few chances for a “second breakfast” on tomorrow's route. Instead, there's a bankrupt resort.

The Simax Campground has a number of large group sites. Our group has a site that is right on Crescent Lake. It's roomy. There are lots of trees, too. Some members of our group camp right beside Crescent Lake. There are almost enough cones and other forest debris on the ground to sleep without blowing up the air mattress. It's quite a bit softer than many camp spots that I've known on bicycle tours.

Chemult, Cascade Summit, and Diamond Lake – 59 Miles


Beside Willamette Highway near Crescent Lake


Beside Willamette Highway near Crescent Lake


Closed Resort on Willamette Highway


Many ways of going down the road, eh?


Chemult


Diamond Lake Junction: Corner of highways 97 and 138 – The Dalles-California and East Diamond Lake highways


Cascade Summitt on East Diamond Lake Highway


Looking for Diamond Lake. It's there in the distance.


Diamond Lake


Diamond Lake



Today's trip is very flat for the first 40 miles. This is followed by one pass, Cascade Summitt. It's visible for miles and miles along the straight East Diamond Lake Highway. One can almost see it in Diamond Lake Junction when one turns onto East Diamond Lake Highway, even though it's quite a ways down the road. Cascade Summitt is rather gradual and easy compared to some of the hills of prior days, and, I'm told, less of a climb than will occur tomorrow on the route up to Crater Lake. A day to rest, today? Well, at least, hold back on this climb. There's more tomorrow.

The day begins with seeing the airport in Crescent Lake that is for sale, and, then, a few miles down the road, coming across a substantial resort that is closed and for sale. Does it have the potential to be the next, big truck stop along this highway? Maybe not? A bit further along is Chemult, an aging town, that is being invaded by big-time gas stations and box stores. This is a place where some old stores are still hanging on. Most of us stop at this one ageing gas station. The ice cream is good, but the old geezer insists that I pay before he fills my cone! There is a porch with benches. We sit there and take in the scene for awhile. The building looks run-down. Service is poor. At one point the attendant disappears behind the store with a ladder. Another man of the same age drives up in his motor home. We persuade him to wait. Eventually, the attendant returns and slowly services the van. Maybe these two dudes have had the same life experiences? They do have the same demeanour.

The traffic is heavy today. At times there are convoys of trucks. There is less traffic, but it's still busy when I turn onto East Diamond Lake Highway – highway 138. This leads to Cascade Summitt and, then, Diamond Lake. All our group rides into Diamond Lake Campground on a bicycle trail. When I ride further on and go to the campground office to get our permits, they are confused. At first the park staff claim that we have not arrived as they have not seen our car and need a licence place. What a car-oriented culture we live in, eh? Eventually everyone catches on and we get registered. Gee, maybe the problem is that I'm trying to multi-task even on vacation? At that point I'm also riding along with a friend so we can wash our clothes at Diamond Lake Lodge where there is a good public laundromat. On our way to the laundry and return, we use the campground road which runs right beside Diamond Lake. It's quite scenic. Doing laundry actually makes us experience this route that is a delight to ride. Most other members of our group, if not all, miss riding this road since they just remain in camp, rinse clothes, and sleep? Well, they also arrive at the local pizza hut and order for us. We all feast out today at “South Shore Pizza Parlor” rather than cooking our evening meal. “South Shore Pizza Parlor” is operated by the same people as Diamond Lake Lodge. It appears that every service a Diamond Lake is owned by the same people. That's OK, though, since the Pizza is tasty. I recommend “South Shore Pizza Parlor” though camp food just might taste even better? It all depends on what one is cooking?

Pumice Desert and Crater Lake National Park – 21 Miles


Diamond Lake


Diamond Lake


Pumice Desert


Pumice Desert


On North Entrance Road going up to Crater Lake


On North Entrance Road going up to Crater Lake


Looking back to Diamond Lake from Crater Lake


Wizard Island in Crater Lake


Phantom Ship in Crater Lake


Vidae Falls



The big feature of todays trip is seeing Crater Lake for the first time and spending time observing it. It is very blue in colour since almost all of the water in the lake is from precipitation, rather than run-off. After leaving camp on Diamond Lake, we soon pay the fee and are in Crater Lake National Park. The climb to Crater Lake begins after the road across Pumice Desert.

After today's climb, the views back to Diamond Lake and out to the west, are almost as dramatic as those of Crater Lake and its bowl. Crater Lake is in a caldera which is the collapsed and sunken middle of the ancient 18,000 foot volcano Mt Mazama. The Caldera was formed 7,700 years ago over just a few days.

We have plenty of time to look around today as we are staying in Crater Lake Lodge for the next 2 nights and it is just a few miles further on. This allows for many stops along Crater Lake and the reading of all the interpretive panels.

After registering in the Lodge, another cyclist and myself take the trolley tour on Rim Drive that circles Crater Lake. Sarah is the host and park interpreter. The trolley stops at various points along the Lake. We learn about pumice and touch it. Pumice is a rock that is lighter than water since it is created by volcanoes that have bubbling lava. Further on we see the Phantom Ship that is due to some eruptions of the magma, and later erosion.

Wizard Island is the largest island in Crater Lake. It's a small volcanic cone inside Crater Lake. It's thought that at one time Wizard Island was joined to the edge of the caldera that contains Crater Lake. At that time, animals migrated to the island. These, then, evolved in isolation. One result is Newts (small lizards) that lost their natural poison. These Newts were OK for centuries, but started having problems surviving when crayfish were introduced into Crater Lake and the crayfish found the Newts to be tasty.

Another problem on Wizard Island is the disappearance of Pika's in the last few years. It's thought that global warming makes it too hot for them to survive?

We find the trolley ride around Crater Lake truly educational and enjoyable, and return to the Lodge where our rooms overlook Crater Lake. We have dinner in the dining room. I have the steak which is local, never frozen, and cooked by first class cooks. And, tasty soup, salad, and dessert, too, eh? Hmm, sumptuous. The excuse for patronizing Crater Lake Lodge on this trip: there are no campgrounds or other facilities close by. There are at least 2 other large groups of cyclists in the lodge this evening. I assume that they have the same attitude? However, some of their equipment indicates that they are staying in a Lodge every night. They don't know what they're missing. There are few motels where we've been on this trip.

Rim Drive of Crater Lake – 35 Miles


Monkey Flower beside Castle Crest Wildflower Garden Trail



Munson Creek, Castle Crest Wildflower Garden Trail



Phantom Ship in Crater Lake


Crater Lake


view from Cloud Cap Outlook, the highest point of Rim Drive, Wizard Island in background


Information on Whitebark Pines that see when turn around at Cloud Cap Outlook


Devil's Backbone


Looking out at Cascade Volcanoes



Today is a rest day with an optional ride of the Rim Drive around Crater Lake. It has 4,000 feet of climbing overall. Well, Terry and I just can't resist. We break from trying out the rocking chairs on the Lodge's porch and ride the Rim stopping at all the sites along the way. Our route goes counter-clockwise around Crater Lake. Our first stop is the Castle Crest Wildflower Garden Trail. It's amazingly bountiful with lots of wildflowers and Munson Creek running through it.

The trip around the Rim is fantastic. After Castle Crest Wildflower Garden Trail there are 4 large climbs. This part of Rim Drive tends to be on the outer side of the ancient volcano with few views of Crater Lake. Even so, there are a number of points where one sees the Phantom Ship from different viewpoints. At the first one I walk a short trail up to a cliff and look down. On my return hike I see a couple with a young child who are enjoying the moment and just being there rather than hustling to see the view.

The second half of Rim Drive has long winding downhills and many more views of Crater Lake after the side-road that goes to the highest point, Cloud Cap Outlook. Just an amazing view at Cloud Cap. Way off in the distance is Wizard Island. When one turns around one sees Whitebark Pines and an old information panel about them. These are one of the first trees in nature's plan of succession, that grow on volcanic rock like that at Crater Lake.

I catch up on my diary with my Netbook in the later afternoon while catching an occasional glance of Crater Lake out the window of our room, before once again going to the dining room at Crater Lake Lodge. This time, I try the lamb. They cook it better than my mother used too. Mmm, good.

Volcanic Legacy Scenic Byway and Klamath Falls – 72 Miles


Crater Lake Lodge


Rocky Spires beside Crater Lake Highway


Fort Klamath


Fort Klamath


7 mile road – cattle ranching


7 mile road – cattle ranching


view from West Side road – overlooking Upper Klamath National Wildlife Refuge


Remnants of another Caldera in Mountain Lakes Wilderness


Upper Klamath Lake


Lakeshore Road



This, the last day of bicycling on this trip starts off with a blast going downhill. It's actually a bit chilly at first. Part way down we see the Rocky Spires. Brian, another cyclist and a science teacher, tells about their significance and origin. Almost all of today's trip is on the Volcanic Legacy Oregon Scenic Byway. At the bottom of the descent, the land is almost flat as a pancake for quite some time. There are large cattle ranches. In the middle of this flat area is our stop at a store in Fort Klamath. The one store is still surviving. There is evidence of a thriving community which no longer exists, but is getting re-generated. There appear to be people living in each building.

After Fort Klamath, many cyclists take a shorter, flat route to Klamath Falls, along Highway 97. They later complain of having zero or very narrow paved shoulders on an expressway, lots of semi-trucks, being run off the road, and other problems. I recommend taking the alternate route that I used along the West Side Road. It is 10 miles longer and has one 2-mile climb over Doan Mountain. The traffic is lighter though one does need to be careful. At times the paved shoulder disappears and the road winds through little hills that make for very short sight-lines. Luckily, the cars following us – Nati, Larry, and myself – know the area and do not pass at these sightless places. There is always another car approaching around almost every bend. Or, are these drivers psychic? Accidents are avoided. And, of course, there are some logging trucks. After all, we are in Oregon!

Along this route are great views of Upper Klamath Lake. The road goes right beside it's western shore. The climb up Doan Mountain is roomy with paved shoulders. Part way up, I stop to read an information panel and take a picture of Mountain Lakes Wilderness that's just off to the right. It is another caldera, similar to that which holds Crater Lake, from an ancient 12,000 foot volcano. There are now 8 small peaks surrounding the caldera.

Today's ride and the trip end too soon in Klamath Falls. We get snacks at a corner store, find the Maverick Motel, and celebrate at the pub next door, the Klamath Basin Brewing Company. Tomorrow , we take the Amtrak train back to Portland ... It's just a couple of blocks away.